tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-61674373942208981002024-02-19T02:25:39.937-05:00Romantic Era Clothing1820-1837 Romantic Era FashionsSandyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08270266276774231778noreply@blogger.comBlogger76125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6167437394220898100.post-8606095852855221342013-07-14T20:26:00.001-04:002013-07-14T20:26:34.639-04:00Romantic Era Fashion Chit Chat - 1837 Ladies Pocket Magazine<script type="text/javascript">
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</script><span lang="EN">Romantic Era Fashion Chit Chat - 1837 Ladies Pocket Magazine<br />
<br />
Remarks on the Prevailing London Fashions<br />
<br />
The weather is still so very unfavourable to the display of summer costume, that scarcely any novelties have yet made their appearance, but they are in readiness, and our fair fashionables only wait for warm and bright sunshine to throw off the demi saison costumes in which they are still enveloped, and appear in the light and tasteful attire of spring.<br />
<br />
We may cite, among the new materials that will be decidedly fashionable, the papyrus: let not our fair readers be alarmed at its antique name, for it is really a beautiful material, and perfectly calculated for a spring robe, as it unites the brilliancy of silk with the softness of cashmere, and the lightness of cambric; it has, besides, the very great advantage of never creasing; it is of different patterns, and calculated both for half dress and evening dress. A still richer material, and calculated for grand costume only, is the satin alphie; it is twilled and glazed with white on a coloured ground, which produces a light and transparent shade, like the surface of water. The mose novel and beautiful among the light materials, is a kind of gauze cachemire, which perfectly merits its name, Ariel, for it has all the transparence in which the fancy of a poet might deck a sylph; it is quadrilled in white upon light and delicate colours, as blue, or pale pink. This pretty material is calculated for social parties. The mousselines capree, also a transparent cashmere material, are of large patterns on white or coloured grounds; they are flowered in bouquets of orange blossoms, myrtle, or aloes, with their warm foliage. Very few printed muslins have made their appearance, nor are they expected to be much in favour; the few that have come out are of large patterns, and it may be taken as a general rule, which will admit of few exceptions, that patterns will this year be very large, and the colours both vivid and in great variety. White muslins are expected to be very fashionable, but not till much later in the season.<br />
<br />
Very little alteration is expected to take place in the make of dresses. The pelisse robe form will be a good deal in favour in half dress, as the corsage will be partially covered, either by a mantelet of the same material, or one of lace, or embroidered muslin, when the weather grows warmed; it will be made to the shape without ornament. The principal change is expected to be in the sleeves. Some have been already introduced, made quite tight to the arm, but ornamented with ruches in such a manner as did not add at all to their volume. We have seen also some others decorated with puffs placed in a spiral direction, and so small as to take off but little from the tightness of the sleeve. Generally speaking, however, there is great reason to think that sleeves of moderate fulness will continue to be fashionable in half dress, though they may not be in a majority.<br />
<br />
Scarfs, light summer shawls, and mantelets, both of taffetas, embroidered muslin, and lace, are expected to be very fashionable in carriage dress. The new scarfs are of a larger size than those usually adopted; the patterns are very rich both in gauze and cashmere. Shawls are either of the half transparent kind, or of cashmirienne, and of uncommon beauty.<br />
<br />
We have, as yet, little to say on the subject of hats and bonnets. There is no doubt that rice straw will maintain all its usual superiority; moire is also expected to be very much in favour, as is also a new and very rich material, reps de Venise; it is a silk of uncommon beauty. Some of the most elegant hats that have already appeared, have large brims standing out very much from the face, and leaving it quite exposed. The principal alterations appear to be in the crowns, or rather the backs of them; the curtains are excessively low, and hang much more gracefully without leaving the neck uncovered. We see also a good many hats cut in a peculiar manner behind, so that the back of the brim supplies, in some degree, the place of a curtain. The new hats are for the most part ornamented with bouquets of early flowers, such as mignionet, violets, primroses, heliotropes, and lilacs. These bouquets are of a round form, and placed low. We must observe, however, that though feathers are not in a majority, several of the most elegant hats are decorated with them, or rather, perhaps, we ought to say with a mixture of feathers and flowers. A new kind of shaded feather, called a folletts, is likely to be much in vogue; so are also marabouts. We should observe, however, that the former are employed to trim the crowns of hats only, but the latter, besides being used for that purpose also, are very frequently employed to decorate the interior of the brims of hats, with a mixture of flowers, in which case the crown is generally decorated with flowers only. We may cite, as an example of this stile, and one of the most elegant that has fallen under our notice, a hat of white moire, trimmed next the face with marabouts mingled with roses; the crown was decorated with a sprig of white lilac, which drooped upon the brim. Fashionable colours are apple green, lavender-bloom, different shades of straw colour, azure blue, cherry, pale pink and drab.</span>Sandyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08270266276774231778noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6167437394220898100.post-47928909967082830142013-04-25T21:43:00.001-04:002013-04-25T21:43:51.675-04:00Romantic Era Fashion Plates - 1837 Ladies Pocket Magazine<script type="text/javascript">
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</script><span lang="EN">Romantic Era Fashion Plates - 1837 Ladies Pocket Magazine<br />
<br />
English Fashions and Novelties<br />
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<span lang="EN">London Walking Dress - Robe of one of the new Spring muslins, a white ground with yellow stripes; it is finished by an embroidered border. Canizon of clear muslin made high and close to the shape, with a round full cape of a very novel form, embroidered round the border. The sleeves quite tight at the lower part of the arm and on the shoulder, are ornamented in the centre with double bouffants. Hat of very fine Leghorn straw, lined with quadrilled gauze, and trimmed with green figured gauze ribbon and a sprig of flowers.</span><br />
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<span lang="EN">London Evening Dress - White tulle robe over a blue gros de Naples slip, the corsage is trimmed with a superb blond lace flounce, headed by a row of blond lace turning upwards: the effect is very novel. Corsage cut low and square, seamed at the sides and pointed at the bottom; it is trimmed in a novel stile with blond lace and coques of white ribbon round the top, and a row of lace is set on round the bottom of the waist. Three double biass falls set on with moderate fulness in the volan, stile decorate the short sleeve. The hair arranged in a knot of Apollo behind, and in soft braids at the sides, is decorated with a wreath of wild flowers, a sprig of foliage descending from it droops upon the neck.</span></span><br />Sandyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08270266276774231778noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6167437394220898100.post-71434753361069460072013-04-17T20:11:00.001-04:002013-04-17T20:11:26.566-04:00Romantic Era Fashion Chit Chat - December 1823 Ackerman's Repository<script type="text/javascript">
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</script><span lang="EN">Romantic Era Fashion Chit Chat - December 1823 Ackerman's Repository<br />
<br />
General Observations of Fashion and Dress<br />
<br />
The actual state of promenade dress at this moment offers little either for observation or description, nor can we expect it should afford us much room for either before next month, that being the period in which the London winter may properly be said to begin.<br />
<br />
Fancy and taste are, however, busily employed in preparing winter novelties, several of which have been submitted to our inspection; and from these we select what we consider most worthy of the attention of our fair readers.<br />
<br />
One of the most striking is a crimson velvet pelisse: it is wadded, and lined with crimson sarsnet: the waist is somewhat longer than last month; the collar, standing out from the throat, but not high, falls a little over, and the long sleeve sits close to the arm. A full rouleau of stin to correspond is disposed in waves up the front and round the bottom; and in the hollow of each wave is placed a branch of trefoil, composed of a mixture of satin and chenille. Full epaulette, ornamented with trefoil, disposed irregularly among the fulness: the bottom of the long sleeve is also ornamented with a light wreath of trefoil.<br />
<br />
A hat and spencer of dark green velvet are also remarkable for their novelty and elegance. The bust of the spencer is ornamented with a wreath of vine-leaves in satin, two shades lighter than the spencer: the half-sleeve, made very full, is fancifully ornamented with vine-leaves, which fall over the point of the shoulder. Low collar, finished at the edge by three narrow satin cords: the bottom of the long sleeve is ornamented to correspond. The spencer fastens behind by silk buttons; and the ceinture, which is composed of intermingled silk and velvet folds, is clasped by a gold or steel buckle.<br />
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The crown of the hat is of the melon form, but low; the brim is shallow, of the same depth all round, but turned up in front, where it is slashed in three places; the slashes are filled with blond, and finished round the edge by a narrow piping of white satin, of which material the lining is composed. A very full plume of white ostrich feathers, tipped with green, falls over to the left side: the strings are of that rich ribbon called by the French ruban des plumes. <br />
<br />
A morning carriage bonnet, composed of intermingled black velvet and satin, is remarkable for its elegance. The crown is low; the velvet and satin are disposed on it in the lozenge style; the inside of the brim is covered with broad black blond lace, arranged in flutings, and the edge is scolloped so as to suffer these flutings to be partially seen: seven or eight marabout plumes, of different sizes, are disposed in front of the crown, so as to form a very graceful ornament; and black blond lappets, edged with a narrow lace, tie under the chin.<br />
<br />
We have seen some dinner dresses of bourre de soie, trimmed with an intermixture of satin and pluche de soie. One of the prettiest of these was a bright scarlet, the body made a la vierge. The centre of the bust was ornamented with rouleaus of pluche de soie, which formed a fan; the bust was cut square, and ornamented by a narrow twisted rouleau of intermingled pluche and satin. Short full sleeve, finished at the bottom with a rouleau similar to that of the bust. The trimming of the skirt consists of a fulness of satin, interspersed with ornaments similar to those in the centre of the bust. This style of trimming is striking, but would look better in lighter materials.<br />
<br />
Toques, turbans, and dress caps are expected to be very general in full dress; and the two former very much in the French style; that is to say, ornamented with plumes of at least two different colours.<br />
<br />
Fashionable colours are crimson, bright scarlet, lavender, chesnut-brown, dark green, violet, ponceau, rose, and azure.</span>Sandyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08270266276774231778noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6167437394220898100.post-35169514547372358672013-02-20T19:39:00.001-05:002013-02-20T19:39:53.987-05:00Romantic Era Fashion Chit Chat - December 1823 Ackerman's Respository<script type="text/javascript">
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</script><span lang="EN">Romantic Era Fashion Chit Chat - December 1823 Ackerman's Respository<br />
<br />
French Female Fashions<br />
<br />
Paris, Nov. 18<br />
<br />
My Dear Sophia,<br />
<br />
Our public promenades are at present very brilliant, most of our distinguished fashionables having arraived within the last few days in Paris from their country-seats. Gros de Naples redingotes, which are always worn with shawls, are much in favour for the promenade, but not quite so general as manteaux: these latter are mostly composed of coating, lined with satin or levantine: a few elegantes, however, still continue to wear them in that peculiarly lustrous black satin which was last winter so fashionable. The colours most fashionable for those in coating are, the mantles of Socrates (a peculiar shade of grey), and a reddish brown, called bear's ear. The manteau has seldom any trimming, but the collar and prelerine are occasionally of fur. Redingotes are made in two ways, both equally fashionable: the first wrap considerably across, have a band of velvet which goes all round, and a double pelerine, trimmed also with a band of velvet to correspond: the sleeves are very large and loose, and the standing collar falls over. The other description of redingote is very much trimmed; it meets but does not wrap in front, and has a broad wreath, either of foliage in satin, or else of very small rouleaus, disposed in a scroll pattern. The most fashionable shawls are those with a crimson ground, or else with a deep palm border.<br />
<br />
Morning bonnets consist for the most part of an intermixture of satin with pluche de soie or velours epingle, or gros de Naples, and always of two colours, which are generally strongly contrasted; they are trimmed either with a garland of satin coques, or knots of satin.<br />
<br />
Breakfast dress is always made in the redingote style, and is still generally of cambric muslin. The most fashionable are trimmed with rouleaus of clear muslin, disposed in waves all round; they are fastened up the fronts by knots of clear muslin. A large pelerine, trimmed with a fall of clear muslin, disposed in dents de loup, and c collerette formed of muslin bouillonne, completes the dress.<br />
<br />
Dinner gowns are of levantine, gros de Naples, or Merino. Those in silk are usually trimmed with an intermixture of satin and crepe lisse, or satin and velours epingle. The crape is disposed in bouffants, which are interspersed with leaves, rouleaus, cockle-sheels, &c. &c. in satin or velvet. Many dinner gowns are made a la vierge and with long sleeves. The sleeves are frequently of crepe lisse, surmounted by an epaulette of the same material as the gown. The sleeve is either very loose, except at the wrist, where it is confined by the bracelet, or else the fulness is divided into compartments by satin bands.<br />
<br />
Gauze, crepe lisse, tulle, and China crape, are all in favour in full dress. The most fashionable China crape is that a colonnes en feuille. When the gown is of this material, it is usually trimmed with an intermixture of plain velvet and satin. Coloured tulle is more fashionable than white; it is mostly worn over a satin slip of the same colour. I have seen one, however, in crimson over white satin, which I thought was really striking and magnificent. The trimming consisted of a net-work of white satin, disposed in the form of little baskets, and attached to each other by bows of crimson ribbon; in each of these fairy baskets is a sprig of poppies in crimson satin, and a bunch of silver wheat. The corsage and sleeves are richly embroidered in silver.<br />
<br />
Turbans of mingled white and rose-coloured gauze, trimmed with white aigrettes, from which issue plumes of rose-coloured feathers, are very fashionable in evening dress; as are also dress caps in tulle, the cauls of which are in the form of a cockle-shell, and the fronts adorned with a garland of short plumes of marabouts. Others have the crown of a helmet form, and a tuft of flowers placed at one side, in the style of a plume. White satin toque hats, adorned with turquoise-blue scarfs, either of gauze or crape, which are twisted round the corner, and form a rosette at the sides, are also much in favour.<br />
<br />
Fashionable colours are, bear's ear, mantle of Socrates, Carmelite brown (which we call la Valliere), ponceau, rose colour, raisin of Corinth blue, straw colour, and light green. Adieu! my dear Sophia! Always your<br />
<br />
Eudocia.</span>Sandyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08270266276774231778noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6167437394220898100.post-55251548261968378982013-02-14T19:53:00.006-05:002013-02-14T19:53:58.532-05:00Romantic Era Fashion Plates - December 1823 Ackerman's Repository<script type="text/javascript">
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</script><span lang="EN">Romantic Era Fashion Plates - December 1823 Ackerman's Repository<br />
<span lang="EN"><br />
London Fashions<br />
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<span lang="EN"><br />
Full Dress - Dress of bright poppy-colour India muslin, ornamented with small sprigs of gold. The corsage to fit, with an elegant stomacher, composed of double rows of gold lace, placed diagonally from the front and continued over the shoulder; the outside formed into vandykes: short full sleeve, incased in bands edged with gold; broad gold lace band round the waist; tucker of narrow blond. The skirt is decorated with gold lace, placed flat on the dress in perpendicular double columns of different height; the upper part finished with a wave, and the highest points terminated with three unilateral leaves of gold edged with very narrow blond; broad wadded hem at the bottom of the dress. Turban of gold and poppy-colour crepe lisse; the frame of alternate rows of the same coloured satins brought to a point in front, and satin bands of French folds supporting the large bouffants of crepe lisse: short coquelicot feather placed on the right side. Pearl ear-rings, bracelets, and necklace; blond lace scarf; French trimmed gloves, and white satin shoes.</span><br />
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<span lang="EN">Evening Dress - British lace dress: the waist rather long, and the corsage plain, with a Farinet tucker of fine tulle, tied in front by a bow of white satin ribbon: short full sleeve, set in a white satin band; perpendicular corded satin bands, ornamented half way with bows of white satin ribbon, support the fulness of the sleeve: corded satin ceinture; rosette of corded leaves behind, with a highly wrought steel buckle in the centre. The skirt is trimmed with two flounces of deep blond lace, arranged in festoons; and a corded satin leaf, pointing downwards, unites three narrow satin pipings that head each flounce: a broad satin rouleau terminates the bottom of the dress. The hair is parted on the forehead, and in light curls round the face; hind hair disposed in bows at the top of the head, and a garland of flowers is placed rather back. Becklace of gold, with ornaments in front; ear-rings and bracelets to correspond. White kid gloves, and white satin shoes.</span><br /></span>Sandyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08270266276774231778noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6167437394220898100.post-80006293901307727272013-01-05T22:14:00.001-05:002013-01-05T22:14:54.932-05:00Romantic Era Fashion Chit Chat - November 1827 Ackerman's Repository<script type="text/javascript">
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</script><span lang="EN">Romantic Era Fashion Chit Chat - November 1827 Ackerman's Repository<br />
<br />
Parisian Fashions<br />
<br />
Though the autumnal fashions have appeared this year earlier than usual, they have not yet quite displaced those of summer: this is certainly accounted for by the warmth of the weather. But though white dresses are still to be seen in the public promenades, our elegantes, attentive to preserve the appearance of the demi-saison costume, throw a China crape shawl, of a rich full colour, or one of the beautiful half-season scarfs which have just appeared, over their shoulders: this, with a satin bonnet, or one of gros de Naples, white, rose, or couleur des Osages (a dusky copper-colour), trimmed with an intermixture of knots of the same material as the bonnet and autumnal flowers, gives to the dress an appearance perfectly suitable to the time of year.<br />
<br />
The greater part of our belles, however, prefer poplin, gros de Naples, and three or four new materials, some in wool, others in silk and wool. Redingotes seem to be getting every day more into favour; they are made, with the corsage, moderately full, the waist the natural length, and sleeves like those of last month; thus, there is nothing new in their form, but there is great taste displayed in their trimmings. Some have an embroidery round the bottom in floss silk of the same colour as the dress, and are fastened up the front by richly wrought gold buttons. Others are finished round the bottom and up the front by small rouleaus of satin to correspond, which are arranged in a kind of scroll pattern. The trimming of the pelerine corresponds. Some pelerines are pointed, others rounded behind; but all have ends, which fall at least a quarter of a yeard below the waist.<br />
<br />
There is nothing new in the form of gowns. Trimmings still continue to be worn excessively high. The newest style of trimming consists of three bands, each of them forming a double row of scollops, the points of which meet in the middle.<br />
<br />
Bonnets continue as large as ever; but the brims begin now to assume a form something between that of a hat and a bonnet: they descend lower behind, and are a little, but very little, closer. Besides the colours I have already mentioned for bonnets, violet of Parma is in favour; and there are some elegantes who appear in bonnets to correspond with their dresses; but when this last happens to be the case, the chapeau is always trimmed with an intermixture of white down feathers and knots of ribbon: the ribbons most in favour are either figured or plaided; but they are always of rich full colours. A new material, figured crape, and two new kinds of figured silk have just made their appearance for bonnets, and promise to become very fashionable.<br />
<br />
We have just seen a dinner-dress made for a distinguished leader of fashion: the corsage was tight to the shape, and cut a moderate height in front, but extremely low behind; a drapery of the same material was disposed in light folds upon the shoulder, and crossed under the ceinture: this drapery is highly advantageous to the shape of the bosom. Short sleeves, full, but not so much so as they are in general, surmounted by epaulettes, composed of interlaced bands of satin, which form a shell. The trimming of the dress consists of two rows of similar shells; each shell is placed at some distance from the other, and the space between filled by a knot of the material of the dress. This dinner-gown, which is really tasteful, is the only novelty that has appeared during the last month. The materials for dinner-dress are, Palmyrienne, Silesienne, both new stuffs and much in favour; French cachemire and gros de Naples. <br />
<br />
Full dress is at present of a very splendid description; the materials are lace or tulle over white satin, plain or figured gros de Naples, and fancy silks. There is great variety in trimmings. Many are of blond lace, disposed in various ways: some have deep flounces, disposed horizontally; others have the flounces arranged in waves; and there are a good many ornamented with satin rouleaus, placed en colonnes, with narrow blond lace wreathed round them: this last is the most novel. Embroidery, both in gold and silver, is also in great favour. Sometimes there is a mixture of both. These trimmings are generally in argent or in or mat, but we see occasionally a mixture of bright and dead gold. Embroidery in silk, with sometimes a mixture of gold and silver, is also fashionable.<br />
<br />
The bodies of full-dress gowns are generally cut very low, particularly behind; but the neck is often shaded either by a small blond lace pelerine with long ends, or by a gauze ribbon, so arranged as to form at once a fichu, epaulettes, and ceinture. Among the new ornaments in jewellery are flowers composed of precious stones; they are made in wreaths and in single flowers. The former are placed very far back on the head, and a plume of feathers, put quite behind, falls over them on one side; but if the flowers are used, then the feathers, instead of being put far back, are placed on one side, and the flowers at the base of the plume. White agate and white cornelian are much in favour for necklaces, ear-rings, &c.; and the former are worn in full, the latter in half-dress. In some necklaces the stones are divided by a rose in dead gold. Necklaces of dead gold, richly wrought, with agate clasps, and crosses of agate suspended from them, are also much in favour. The bracelets and ear-rings always correspond. The colours for dresses are the same as last month, with the addition of lavender, copper-colour, and a new shade of brown.</span>Sandyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08270266276774231778noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6167437394220898100.post-9974699736073233272012-12-28T21:13:00.005-05:002012-12-28T21:13:53.483-05:00Romantic Era Fashion Plates - November 1827 Ackerman's Repository<script type="text/javascript">
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</script><span lang="EN">Romantic Era Fashion Plates - November 1827 Ackerman's Repository<br />
<br />
London Fashions<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu564mP4ntcY8xxEQ7INhvT2PQsUBBou95qXLbl1T7V4xgJ4f1vK9QUrP4hJMGtVtYF33fhgtBxNcc7ZKcQpJwZXucnE9NgLvBLwz1PF3fZaxEheapJGGDywrbXbhaOplHNltuBqfGkVfu/s1600/1827-11+Ackermans+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu564mP4ntcY8xxEQ7INhvT2PQsUBBou95qXLbl1T7V4xgJ4f1vK9QUrP4hJMGtVtYF33fhgtBxNcc7ZKcQpJwZXucnE9NgLvBLwz1PF3fZaxEheapJGGDywrbXbhaOplHNltuBqfGkVfu/s320/1827-11+Ackermans+1.jpg" width="170" /></a></div>
<br />
<span lang="EN">Morning Dress<br />
<br />
Pomegranate-colour gros de Naples dress, checked with black and a deeper shade of pomegranate; the body is made high and full, and the sleeves en gigot; the skirt has a little fulness in front, and is trimmed with three deep bias tucks, the upper not so broad as the two lower. Vandyked tulle pelerine, with falling circular collar, edged with white satin, and meeting just above the waist. The vandykes are progressively large to the shoulder, where they are very deep, and lessen again towards the back. Sprigged lace cap, placed rather forward; the border broad and full, with cross-barred blue gauze ribbon between the spaces in front: above the border the ribbon is plain as far as the temple, from whence it is pressed round the back part of the cap: the crown is full and regulated by blue ribbon. The hair is dressed in ringlets. Plain gold ear-rings; eye-glass suspended by a black ribbon formed into a loop, and confined at the throat by a gold filigree slider, ornamented with rubies. Black velvet bracelets and sash, with short bows and pointed ends, reaching to the tucks of the dress in front; blue kid gloves; black shoes of gros des Indes.</span><br />
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<br />
<span lang="EN">Dinner Dress<br />
<br />
White tulle dress over a Tyrian blue satin slip, with short full sleeves. The waist is long and the body full, and trimmed with a falling scollopped blond lace round the top, which is circular and rather high; the sleeves are large, terminated by a double trimming, and confined at the wrists with gold bracelets, with white cornelian cameo clasps. The skirt is decorated by a festoon of embroidered tulle, with a blue satin rosette at each elevation; beneath is a narrow satin rouleau of the same colour, heading a very deep and beautifully embroidered flounce. Blue satin sash, edged and spotted with gold-colour; bows and ends on the left side. Toque of Tyrian blue satin and white crepe lisse, adorned with gold lace, and a broad band of the same round the head. Necklace of white pearl and turquoise, with an ornamented crescent pendant from the centre: ear-rings to correspond. White gauze scarf, with longitudinal rows of gold-colour satin; white kid gloves; blue satin shoes.</span><br /></span>Sandyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08270266276774231778noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6167437394220898100.post-86549871365667640862012-12-10T22:44:00.001-05:002012-12-10T22:44:08.876-05:00Romantic Era Fashion Chit Chat - March 1830 The Ladies' Pocket Magazine<script type="text/javascript">
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</script><span lang="EN">Romantic Era Fashion Chit Chat - March 1830 The Ladies' Pocket Magazine<br />
<br />
Cursory Remarks on the last new Fashions<br />
<br />
Comfort seems to be the order of the day, as far as regards out-door costume among our fair fashionables. Muffs, tippets, and mantles keep their ground most pertinaceously. Bonnets have suffered some change, both in carriage dress, and for the promenade. Velvet is still the material most in favor for the latter: they are the same size as last month; but the capote shape is most prevalent: it is certainly the most appropriate for walking dress. The most elegant of these bonnets are finished with a curtain veil of black blond lace, round the edge of the brim.<br />
<br />
Hats are most in favor in carriage dress: those composed of velvet, are ornamented with bows of the same materials, intermixed either with very rich colored ribbon, or feathers; but the latter predominates: satin, and figured gros de Naples, are also in request, particularly citron and cherry-color: hats, composed of these materials, are very much trimmed: some have large full bows to correspond with the hat, finished at the end with a very rich fringe: others have the crowns arranged en draperie, with blond lace: they are all, more or less, trimmed inside the brim: the most becoming, are those that have a fulness of blond lace arranged next the face, and terminating with bows of ribbon at the sides.<br />
<br />
A new dress for the breakfast table, and one that is likely to become a favorite, is composed of dark lavender-colored poplin; it is made to the throat, but without a collar: the back part of the corsage is tight; the front is disposed in three deep folds on each side, which are continued to the bottom of the skirt: the sleeve is a l'Amadis: the hem is very broad, and the upper edge of it is finished with two rows of deep points, which are placed irregularly, and fall over.<br />
<br />
Watered, and changeable silks and satins, are in favor in full dress. Various new trimmings have appeared; but fringe, though now so long in fashion, is still the favorite. Gowns, in full dress, continue to be cut very low round the bosom: some ladies, and we wish the fashion were more general, have the bosom delicately shaded by folds of tulle, or blond net disposed round the upper part of the corsage; this is equally delicate and becoming. Sleeves are very short and full in grand costume; the most elegant, are those which have an upper sleeve a la Marino Faliero; these sleeves are of two descriptions, some hang quite loose in the oriental stile, others equally full, are confined in the middle of the arm by a gold bracelet, or a rouleau, and the remaining part of the sleeve which is cut like a ruffle, hangs loose.<br />
<br />
If the dress is not finished with fringe round the border, it has a row of embroidery above the hem, or a drapery flounce of blond lace, or tulle trimming en bouillon, also after having been for some time out of fashion, have been recently introduced, the bouillons are formed by rouleaux placed in various ways.<br />
<br />
Fancy black is very much in favor for social parties: the dress is either of satin, or gros de Naples: the trimming is fringe of some bright rich color, or else a party-colored chain, or rouleaux disposed in various forms. Dresses for social parties are usually made partially high, or else a lace pelerine fichu is worn with the dress.<br />
<br />
Ball dresses, are of gauze or crape, a good many have the corsage of satin. When that is the case, they are simply finished round the border with three narrow satin rouleaux, placed immediately above the hem.<br />
<br />
Caps are very much in favor in half dress, they are of a large size, and a most unbecoming shape. Many have a drapery across the crown, which is looped in different places with a single flower.<br />
<br />
Caps are also in favor in full dress, but not so much so as toques and dress-hats. The hair continues to be dressed very high, and to be a good deal ornamented. Many head-dresses are composed of gauze, so arranged as to have nearly the appearance of berets; these are adorned with feathers, or if they have no ornament, then a sprig of roses is placed in the curls over the temples, or else a bandeau of gold or silver is brought low on the forehead.<br />
<br />
Fashionable colors, are very bright chesnut, grass-green, pink, cirtron, and crimson.</span>Sandyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08270266276774231778noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6167437394220898100.post-32629959564118147812012-12-01T17:19:00.002-05:002012-12-01T17:19:21.626-05:00Romantic Era Fashion Plates - March 1830 The Ladies' Pocket Magazine<script type="text/javascript">
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</script><span lang="EN">Romantic Era Fashion Plates - March 1830 The Ladies' Pocket Magazine<br />
<br />
<span lang="EN">The Ladies' Toilet<br />
<br />
Fashions Represented in the Engravings<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHB_ZSEyFE5gzmHF2R1SdjmTYbDpnVnMB8E7B6yKNE8hTfGbsD4UDva-ZH48yhyphenhyphenxhiMwxJZvT6cBIbFX-xTeiRTQWhiCa5Nos45oNIQwZ19CgJCt7_cH745xEFJxmYGOkkTpLn7Am48fX1/s1600/1830-03+Ladies+Pocket+Mag+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHB_ZSEyFE5gzmHF2R1SdjmTYbDpnVnMB8E7B6yKNE8hTfGbsD4UDva-ZH48yhyphenhyphenxhiMwxJZvT6cBIbFX-xTeiRTQWhiCa5Nos45oNIQwZ19CgJCt7_cH745xEFJxmYGOkkTpLn7Am48fX1/s320/1830-03+Ladies+Pocket+Mag+1.jpg" width="154" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN">Morning and Walking Dress - A high dress, composed of merinos; the color is a very delicate shade of lavender bloom. The corsage is made up to the throat, and sets close to the shape; it is finished by a round pelerine of black velvet of a moderate size. The sleeves are a l' Amadis, extremely full at the upper part of the arm, the fulness divided above the elbow by a black velvet band. A very deep cuff, also, of black velvet, made to set close to the arm, goes nearly halfway to the elbow, it is finished at each edge by a light pointed silk trimming. The skirt is trimmed above the hem with narrow black velvet folds; there are four laid close together. A round pelerine of the finest cambric, embroidered at the border, and finished with a double frill round the throat, and a British lace cap completes this dress for the breakfast table. For the morning walk, a bonnet of the capote shape, - composed of lavender, and canary color gros de Naples, and a black velvet mantle must be added. - Black kid shoes. Canary colored gloves.</span><br />
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<span lang="EN">Evening Dress - A gauze dress of the very palest gold color over a satin slip to correspond: the corsage is cut a moderate height in front, but low on the shoulders and behind; the back is tight to the shape; the front is arranged in drapery in the Circassian stile, and the draperies fastened on the shoulders by ornaments of gold fillagree. Ceinture a la grecque disposed in folds round the waist, and fastened in short full bows behind: very short full sleeve: a single very deep flounce, set on just above the knee, forms the trimming of the skirt: the flounce is finished round the border with narrow satin rouleaux, disposed in lozenges. The hair is arranged a la Aspasie, and decorated with bouquets of roses; one is inserted in the bow placed on the crown of the head; another on the right side, and a very small one on the left: a comb, with a high gallery, richly ornamented with colored gems, supports the bows at the back of the head. Diamond necklace and earrings: gold fillagree bracelets, with Diamond necklace and earrings: gold fillagree bracelets, with diamond clasps: a white gauze scarf, finished at the ends with satin stripes, and massive gold rings is thrown carelessly round the neck. White kid gloves, slippers, of white gros de Naples.</span><br /></span><br /></span>Sandyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08270266276774231778noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6167437394220898100.post-14786623381618901662012-11-15T19:45:00.001-05:002012-11-15T19:45:24.613-05:00Romantic Era Fashion Chit Chat - March 1821 Ackerman's Repository<script type="text/javascript">
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</script><span lang="EN">Romantic Era Fashion Chit Chat - March 1821 Ackerman's Repository<br />
<br />
General Observations on Fashion and Dress<br />
<br />
Velvet spencers, which are worn with poplin or gros de Naples dresses, are now as much, or in fact rather more, in favour for walking dress than pelisses, though the latter are still fashionable. Spencers are trimmed in general with satin of the same colour; the epaulettes are small but full; the sleeves rather straight, and the collars not so high as they have been worn: tabs have disappeared, but the waist is always ornamented either with a small jacket or with Brandenbourgs at the hips.<br />
<br />
The mildness of the weather has induced our elegantes to adopt rather a lighter style of out-door dress than last month: thus the Angola shawl and the large fur tippet are at present seldom seen; but silk or China crape scarfs are generally worn with spencers, and India shawls are much in favour with high dresses.<br />
<br />
Promenade bonnets have suffered no diminution of size: we refer to our print, Mos. 1 and 2 for the most fashionable, both in form and materials. Black velvet and black satin are also a great deal worn. Beaver, though not very fashionable, is nevertheless in favour with some elegantes: bonnets composed of it are always ornamented with a large plume of marabout or ostrich feathers, and a full feather trimming at the edge of the brim; when the hat is decorated with flowers, the brim is edged with moss silk, or with a mixture of satin and gauze.<br />
<br />
We have noticed in carriage dress a pelisse remarkable only for its having a hood attached to it: the hood, like the trimming, was composed of ermine, and had certainly a rich but a very heavy effect; it was also, as our fair readers will readily conceive, extremely disadvantageous to the shape. We have seen only one pelisse of this kind, and that was on a lady of very high rank.<br />
<br />
Another, and a very elegant novelty, is a carriage pelisse composed of purple velvet, and lined with white sarsnet: the body is tight to the shape; the waist is the usual length; the shape of the back is marked by a slight embroidery in braiding to correspond in colour with the pelisse, and small silk acorns finish it at the hips. The trimming consists of a wreath of oak-leaves, formed of chenille and purple satin intermixed; it is laid on in a wave, and goes all round. A large pelerine, pointed like a fichu behind, and with two long ends in front, is trimmed in a similar manner. This trimming has an uncommonly beautiful effect.<br />
<br />
Rose colour and black are, more than any other colours, in request for carriage bonnets: we appear in fact to carry our fondness for the former hue to as great an extreme as our French neighbors, for all the various shades of it may be seen in our fashionable bonnets. We observe is a good many instances the lining also is rose colour, of a shade corresponding to that of the bonnet. The present month does not furnish much novelty (with the exception of the head-dresses given in our print) in carriage hats or bonnets; but we have observed some trimmings for the edges of the brims of bonnets which we think novel and pretty. ONe of these is composed of puffs of transparent gauze, between each of which is a satin shell; another is a fall of blond set on full, and festooned at the very edge of the brim, each festoon being fastened by a small rose; a third trimming is composed of satin, disposed in the form of crescents, with bouillonne of gauze between.<br />
<br />
We have noticed a pretty dishabille composed of cahemire: the body is loose, and made up to the throat with a falling collar, which is rounded, is very deep, and is cut in points so as to form a small pelerine; the body is confined to the waist by a girdle pointed in the middle of the back and under the breasts: the sleeve is very long and loose; it is terminted by a cuff, which turns up in a single deep point; these points, and also the girdle, are edged with a very narrow binding of gros de Naples, to correspond in colour. The bottom of the skirt is finished with a broad bouillonne of cachemire, adorned at each edge by a chain trimming composed of plaited gros de Naples. This dress is the only novelty which we have remarked in morning costume, the materials for which continue the same as in our last Number.<br />
<br />
Crape continues to be getting still more into estimation in full dress. Coloured gauzes over satin slips of the same colour are also a good deal worn. Waists are a little longer, and we think the bust is rather more exposed than it was last month. Long sashes are not now considered very fashionable, though they are still worn; but girdles, of the same material as the dress, or of satin, if the gown be gauze, crape, or lace, are more in estimation: they are always fastened by a clasp composed of diamonds, pearls, or coloured gems.<br />
<br />
Dress gowns are not, upon the whole, trimmed so high in general as they have been; although there seems no certain criterion of fashion in that respect, as a good many elegantes of distinguished taste still have their dresses trimmed very high; while other ladies, and those we think the greater number, adopt the moderate style of trimming given in our print.<br />
<br />
A toque of a novel description has made its appearance, which looks at a distance like a crown of feathers: it is a low ovel crown, composed of white satin, and is entirely surrounded by low plumes of marabouts placed close to each other; a very narrow band of wrought silk, which conceals the ends of the feathers, goes next to the face: this is a styleof head-dress singularly becoming to a pretty woman, but by no means calculated for those ladies to whom nature has not been bountiful.<br />
<br />
Fashionable colours are the same as last month.</span>Sandyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08270266276774231778noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6167437394220898100.post-80397258552138634902012-11-03T14:33:00.001-04:002012-11-03T14:33:35.637-04:00Romantic Era Fashion Chit Chat - March 1821 Ackerman's Repository<script type="text/javascript">
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</script><span lang="EN">Romantic Era Fashion Chit Chat - March 1821 Ackerman's Repository<br />
<br />
French Female Fashions<br />
<br />
Paris, Feb. 18<br />
<br />
My dear Sophia,<br />
<br />
Pelisses made as I described to you in my last, are still in favour for the promenade; but though fashionable, they are by no means so exclusively so as they were last month: they are at present mostly mode in velours simule; the favourite colours are sea green, and a peculiar sort of yellow, about a shade deeper than primrose. The lining is of rose colour, and if there is any trimming, it consists in general of a band of rose-coloured pluche or satin; and in some instances, the hood is entirely of rose colour.<br />
<br />
Spencers are equally in favour, and the materials for them are more various than for pelisses; satin, levantine, velvet, and velours simule being all fashionable. The waist is long; the spencer is tight to the shape, and buttoned behind; the collar high, and standing up in the back of the neck, where it is buttoned, but it is open in front; a sash, which is in general of the same material as the spencer, fastens behind with bows and long ends.<br />
<br />
The chapeaux which I described to you in my last letter are still in favour. An attempt has been made by some of our most dashing elegantes to revive the Polish hat: you recollect, I dare say, the shape that I mean - a high crown, with a little turned-up front: some seasons ago they were very fashionable in Paris, but they were then worn either with gold bands and tassels, or without any ornament; now they are adorned with full plumes of ostrich or down feathers. These chapeaux are not, however, adopted by many belles; and, in fact, they can never be generally becoming to Frenchwomen, as their features are not usually of that soft description which suits this kind of head-dress.<br />
<br />
The crowns of some black velvet chapeaux are plaited in those full hollow plaits in which ruffs are generally disposed; a steel pin, the head of which is cut in points like diamonds, ornaments the crown, and a full knot of velvet with long ends is placed at one side: these hats are usually lined with white or rose-coloured satin, or pluche de soie, but they never have any trimming at the edge of the brim.<br />
<br />
The most fashionable undress bonnet is a cpaote of ponceau velvet; the crown is very low; the brim smaller than those of bonnets in general, and made to sit close to the face: it is lined with a sarsnet of the same colour, and has no other ornament than a satin band round the bottom of the crown, and satin strings.<br />
<br />
The form of dinner and evening dress is nearly the same, but the materials differ a good deal: levantine, velours simule, and gros de Naples are very much worn in the first. The trimming consists of chinchilla, swansdown, or bands of velvet. The corsage is either plain, and tight to the shape, or else it is made a la Sevigne. The sleeves of dinner gowns are always made long, and those dresses are generally worn with a fichu. Sleeves continue to be worn very straight; the epaulettes are usually full, and mostly come half way to the elbow. Where the dress is trimmed with fur, a little point is attached to the shoulder-strap; a band encircles the bottom of the epaulette, and another the end of the long sleeve. The skirt is trimmed with two, or at most three bands; the bottom one is very broad, and each of the others something narrower; there is rather better than a nail between each band.<br />
<br />
Full-dress gowns are composed of velvet, satin, tulle, gauze, and crape: this last material, however, is not so much in favour as the former ones. Rose and white are the two colours most in estimation; blue and ponceau are also in request; and what will appear to you very singular, black is very much worn even for ball dresses: sometimes it is trimmed with rose colour, ut in many instances the trimming is also black. I was lately at a ball where a lady who is noted for being the first to introduce singular fashions, appeared in a balck tulle robe over a black satin slip; the corsage was a mixture of black velvet and satin ornamented with jet, and the bottom of the robe was trimmed with black satin ribbon twisted in a corkscrew roll, and laid on in a wave; between each wave was a rosette composed of black satin intermixed with jet beads. Out of above one hundred ladies who were present, there were fourteen with black robes, and twelve with black slips, over which they had either white or coloured gauze or crape dresses. I was not a little pleased to see that not one of our countrywomen adopted this style of dress, so unsuitable to a festive scene.<br />
<br />
Some of those gowns that are not made with stomachers have a little fulness at the bottom of the waist in front as well as behind. The sleeves are universally short, much more so indeed than they have lately been worn. Trimmings are of three sorts: feathers, which are very much worn; flowers intermixed with bouillonne of tulle, and bouffans of this last material, or of gauze, which are formed by knots of silk cord. The feather trimmings have an uncommonly beautiful effect; they are composed not only of down and ostrich feathers, but also of the plumes of different coloured birds, intermingled, in some instances, with ears of wheat formed of gold or silver, or with different coloured flowers. The head-dress is always ornamented to correspond. I shall describe to you some of the trimmings which I think most striking, though not with the idea of your adopting them; for pretty as they are, they appear to me too fantastical for the sober taste of Englishwomen. The most simple is a rouleau of white marabouts, interspersed with ears of corn composed of gold: this is fashionable, but not so much so as a trimming of marabouts, beneath which is a row of the eyes of peacocks' feathers, surrounded with curled ostrich feathers. Another, still more tonish, is a wreath of white smooth feathers, at each side of which is a row of gold lama: I should observe, that roses or fancy flowers of a deep ponceau colour are interspersed in the feather wreath, and that the lama is put at some distance from it. In some instances the plumes are the colour of the dress, and they then form three rouleaus of equal size, and placed at some distance from each other: but this style of trimming is not considered by any means so fashionable as the mixture of feathers with flowers and gold. <br />
<br />
I saw lately at a ball given by one of our most distinguished fashionables, two dancing dresses, which I shall describe to you, as I consider them very appropriate and tasteful: the one was composed of tulle over a white satin slip; the bottom of the skirt was finished by a rouleau of rose-coloured satin, above which was placed a broad piece of tulle, formed into bouillonne by narrow rouleaus of rose-coloured satin, placed bias: immediately over the bouillonne is a row of roses, scattered at irregular distances; their stalks are inserted in the trimming; a second row, also placed irregularly, is put at a little distance above the first. The corsage, which is also composed of tulle, corresponds with the bouillonne at the bottom of the skirt, except that the satin rouleaus are placed perpendicularly instead of bias: there is a very narrow stomacher, which has no point at the bottom; it is cut square, and rather high round the bust; a single row of pointed blond is put on almost plain, and stands up. The girdle is of rose-coloured satin, rather broad, and fastened with a jewelled clasp at the side. Very short sleeve, made to correspond exactly with the trimming of the skirt.<br />
<br />
The other dress is made of white transparent gauze over white satin; the bottom of the skirt is finished by three rows of bouffans of the same material, which are formed by full knots of ponceau silk cord; a broad rouleau of ponceau satin edges the bottom of the skirt, and the bouffans are placed at a little distance from each other, so that the trimming, though high, is not unbecomingly so. Corsage a la Sevigne, the lower part ponceau satin, the upper transparent gauze; a clasp of gold and rubies confines the fulness in the middle of the bosom. Very short full sleeve, ornamented in the middle with a knot of silk cord, to correspond with the bottom of the skirt. This is really a pretty dress, but the bust is rather too much exposed.<br />
<br />
Small steel spangles begin to be used for embroidering the bottoms of some ball dresses: they have a very brilliant effect by candlelight: these trimmings are in scroll patterns, or in wreaths of leaves.<br />
<br />
Turbans and dress caps are a good deal in favour: the former are in general of a Turkish shape, and, as I before observed to you, decorated with the feathers of various birds, intermingled with ears of corn in gold or silver, and sometimes with jewels and flowers. The caps are in general of a simple form, small and round, and pointed in front a la Marie Stuart: these caps are always decorated with flowers, of which the most fashionable at present are, roses, auriculas, hyacinths, heath blossoms, the blossoms of various kinds of fruit-trees, and several exotics, particularly the camelia Japonica. In giving you this list of flowers, I must observe that it is principally roses, auriculas, and hyacinths that are used for caps; two branches of the latter are generally employed, one white and the other rose colour. These flowers, as well as the others of which I have just spoken, are also used to decorate the hair. Garlands of roses intermixed with ears of corn in silver are very much in request, as are also coeffures composed of a mixture of gauze and flowers, disposed among the hair. Coral ornaments of every description are now very fashionable. We had, as you know, a perfect rage for coral about five years ago, and I think this mania is reviving. I have already told you the colours most fashionable for pelisses and dresses, but I must observe to you, that in full dress, white, with coloured trimmings, is considered more tonish than anything else. - Adieu, my dear Sophia! Confess, that if you are not by this time an adept in the mysteries of dress, it is not the fault of you<br />
<br />
Eudocia.</span>Sandyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08270266276774231778noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6167437394220898100.post-44743861139841686742012-10-11T19:11:00.001-04:002012-10-11T19:11:07.091-04:00Romantic Era Fashion Plate - March 1821 Ackerman's Repository<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span lang="EN">Romantic Era Fashion Plate - March 1821 Ackerman's Repository<br />
<br />
London Fashions<br />
<br />
Evening Dress<br />
A round dress composed of pale pink soie de Londres, trimmed with pink zephyreene fluted in a scroll pattern. The corsage is cut square at the bust, and so as to display the neck a good deal; the back is plain, and laced behind; the front is ornamented with a stomacher, broad at the top, but sloping in a good deal towards the bottom, and coming very little below the waist: it is decorated with pearls. The sleeve is a fulness of net over pink soie de Londres; the fulness is confined in the middle by a pink satin ornament. The hair is dresses in loose ringlets on the forehead, and falling low at the sides; the hind hair is cut partly behind, so as to curl in the neck; the remaining part is braided, and brought round the head. Head-dress, a tiara of diamonds and a full plume of marabouts. Necklace and ear-rings, diamonds. White kid gloves, and white satin shoes.<br />
<br />
We are indebted to Miss Pierpoint, inventress of the corset a la Grecque, of No. 9, Henrietta-street, Covent-Garden, for this elegant dress and the head-dresses which we present this month to our fair subscribers.</span><script type="text/javascript">
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<span lang="EN">Romantic Era Ladies' Headwear - March 1821 Ackerman's Repository<br />
<br />
London Fashions<br />
<br />
Head-Dresses<br />
No 1. A Bonnet composed of black de cape: it has a low crown and a very large brim, which is lined with pink zephyreene; the edge of the brim is ornamented with a wreath of black satin, disposed in scolloped folds. A full plume of black marabouts is placed at the right side of the crown, and a bow of the same material as the bonnet is attached to the base of the plume. Black gros de Naples strings.<br />
<br />
No 2. A ponceau velvet bonnet lined with white satin: the brim is deep, but sits close to the face; it is edged with a rouleau of ponceau satin; the velvet is laid in full folds on the crown, which is of an oval shape; a small piece of velvet falls into the neck; a bow of the same material is placed in the centre of the crown, and a wreath of full-blown roses goes round the bottom of it. Ponceau strings.<br />
<br />
No 3. A white satin hat: the crown is low: the brim is of a very novel shape; it is small, turns up, and is square on the left side, and rounded and much deeper on the right side, where a knot of white satin is placed just under the edge. A plume of white flat ostrich feathers, at the base of which is a full bow of white satin, is attached to the right side of the crown.<br />
<br />
No 4. A hat composed of white figured satin; the crown is low; the brim turns up in front; it is shallow at the sides, but deep over the forehead. A plume of white flat ostrich feathers is placed on the right side, and droops as low as the left shoulder. This hat is worn over a cornette of tulle.<br />
<br />
No 5. A small round cap composed of British net, with a very full border of rich lace; a knot of green ribbon is placed at the right ear, and a similar knot over the forehead, with a bouquet of primroses surrounded with foliage.</span><script type="text/javascript">
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Romantic Era Fashion Chit Chat - March 1825 Ladies' Monthly Museum<br />
<br />
General Monthly Statement of Fashion<br />
<br />
Mantles continue to be much worn in promenade dress; the most admired are composed of black satin, wadded and lined with amber, or flame colour. There are also a few in velvet, and some in very fine Merino cloth, with velvet capes; the latter material, owing to its soft, light, and warm texture, is extremely well adapted for walking dress. These mantles are invariably trimmed with the richest fur. Pelisses of gros de Naples, wadded, are also much in favour for the promenade. The sleeves are long and full, and confined between the shoulder and the elbow with a band and button, and five bands, placed at equal distances from the wrist towards the elbow. The fronts are ornamented with three bias tucks on each side, meeting at the waist, and increasing in breadth and distance as they reach the shoulder, or descend to the bottom of the skirt, where they turn off in a round form, and are continued round to the opposite side, where they meet the tucks in front, and, interlacing with them, form a festoon on each side; beneath is a broad wadded hem.<br />
<br />
For carriage dress, mantles and pelisses continue in equal favour; the former are chiefly lined and trimmed with fur; the latter are trimmed with a double row of points, one half velvet, and the other satin, in the form of a pelerine, which has a novel effect. Fur is also very much in favour for pelisses: the most admired is chinchilla, dark sable, or ermine.<br />
<br />
Velvet and black beaver are the principal materials for walking bonnets; they are for the most part trimmed with feathers, but many of the former are trimmed with velvet, slightly intermixed with satin. We have seen a ew carriage-bonnet deserving of notice; it is composed of Indian rose-coloured gros de Naples; the crown is high: a knot composed of folds of the same material, is placed in the centre of the crown; and four white marabouts issue from it on each side, so arranged as to form a fan. The inside of the brim is covered with a fulness of blond net, formed by narrow rouleaux of the same material as the bonnet. A rouleau of a larger size finishes the edge of the brim. The strings are of gros de Naples, of the lappet form, edged with anrrow blond lace.<br />
<br />
A beautiful morning dress has just been submitted to our inspection; it is composed of French grey levantine; the corsage is made full and up to the throat, but without a collar; the fulness is confined round the bust by a triple gaging, formed by narrow grey silk cord: a similar gaging confines it also at the waist: the body fastens behind. The sleeves are very full, and finished at the wrist by bracelets composed of triple rows of gaging; a similar band confines it to the arm midway between the elbow and the wrist. The trimming of the skirt consists of three rows of bias tucks of the same material, laid on in waves. Waists continue very long, and the busts of dresses are much ornamented. Sleeves in full dress are extremely short, very full, and falling considerably off the shoulder. Evening dresses of ethereal blue satin, and striped gauze, are much admired: the corsage is plain in front, with a stomacher formed of blue satin, laced with cord, and finished on each side with square satin straps, in the Spanish fashion, a satin rouleau round the top, and a narrow blond tucker. The sleeves are short and full; and a double row of straps, forming a wreath, is placed just above the band, which is edged with blond. A satin cape with square corners, (divided on the shoulder,) extends from the stomacher round the back of the corsage, and is also trimmed with narrow blond. The bottom of the dress is ornamented with a wreath of crescent-shaped leaves edged with blond, having in the centre a sort of chain composed of French folds of satin: beneath are two narrow rouleaux of satin, and a broad wadded hem.<br />
<br />
Toques and turbans are much inf avour. Some ladies have their hair arranged with a profusion of curls in front, and a band of pearls brought low on the forehead. The hind hair is arranged in bows by jewelled combs, and short white down feathers placed irregularly between the bows.<br />
<br />
The most fashionable colours are, damask rose colour, Egyptian brown, and various shades of violet, blue, and green.<br />
<br />
The Parisian Toilet<br />
<br />
Mantles continue to form the most general envelope; they are made so long and large, that the hem of the gown can scarcely be seen; these mantles are chiefly of velvet, or black glazed satin. Furs are very general in trimmings; lynx, sable, and ermine, are most fashionable. The collar is entirely of fur; the trimming consists of a broad band, which goes round: the pelerine is edged to correspond, but the band is baout half the width. Cachemere shawls are seen with ridingotes, but they are not very numerous.<br />
<br />
Bonnets are still very large; the favourite material at present is black or blue velvet; there are, however, a number made of black glazed satin. They are generally ornamented with white down feathers; the lappets are of white crepe lisse, or white gauze de laine. Where feathers are not used for velvet bonnets, they are generally ornamented with a piece of the same stuff, cut in the form of a half handkerchief; they are lined with satin, and finished at each point with an acorn in wrought silk; this trimming is so arranged, that one of the points falls in front of the crown, and the two others at each side.<br />
<br />
Evening dresses are now generally of gauze crepe lisse, or tulle, over white satin; they are finished by an intermixture of satin bands corded at the edge and ruches of tulle.<br />
<br />
Corsages made tight to the shape, now very generally supersede those en blouse. Tight sleeves, with very full mancherons, are much in favour. Pelerines are universally adopted, and are always trimmed to correspond with the dress.<br />
<br />
The Peruvian toque is in great request; it is made very low, and finished by short grey down feathers, placed round at regular distances. The Venetian toque, ornamented with ostrich feathers, placed a little on one side, and falling back over the crown, is also in high favour. Turbans are the most fashionable covering for the head in full dress; they are always adorned with feathers.<br />
<br />
The most fashionable colours are damask rose colour, violet, grey, and lilac.Sandyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08270266276774231778noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6167437394220898100.post-18012139437946234682012-09-03T10:27:00.001-04:002012-09-03T10:27:44.503-04:00Romantic Era Fashion Plate - March 1825 Ladies' Monthly Museum<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span lang="EN">Romantic Era Fashion Plate - March 1825 Ladies' Monthly Museum<br />
<br />
The Mirror of Fashion for March, 1825<br />
<br />
Walking Dress - A blue dress of crepe lisse, over a white satin slip; the border is finished with three rouleaux of narrow white satin, brought to a festoon, on the right side, and terminating with a full blown rose; the bottom of the dress is completed by a broad wadded hem edged with satin. The body is plain and surmounted round the bust by a full puffing of crepe lisse, confined by narrow pipings. The sleeves are full, and let in with quillings of the same material and bound by satin bands. White kid gloves and white satin shoes. Ornaments of pearl.<br />
<br />
Evening Dress - A pelisse of pistachio coloured gros de Naples; the back is plain, the sleeves full, but plain towards the shoulders, and narrow to the wrist; a broad light fur forms the cuff, with a collar to correspond, and a broad belt to confine the waist: round the border of the skirt are placed, in an oblique direction, leaves, of the same material, bound round and surmounted by pipings of satin. The hat is of black velvet, with a plume of marabouts, and with it is worn a cap of Urling's lace thrown off the face, with full curls on each side of the head. This dress is completed by a handsome ruff of Urling's lace to correspond with the cap. Ornaments, gold chain and eye glass.<br />
<br />
Head-dress - The most fashionable style of dressing hair is in large Parisian curls on the forehead. The braid is elegantly drest in small bows across the head, with flowers at the sides, or surmounted with feathers.<br />
<br />
For the dresses we are, as usual, indebted to the taste of Miss Pierpoint, Edward-street, Portman-square; and for the Head-dress, to Mr. Colley, Bishopsgate-street within.</span><script type="text/javascript">
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London Fashions for April
We never commenced Spring under happier auspices for Fashion; the court is to be a scene of successive gaieties, imitated, doubtless, by all our brilliant world. The costumes, both evening and morning, combine all that can be imagined capable of enhancing (or rather let us say displaying) our fair countrywomen's beauty. Heaven grant them health and joy to complete their triumphs.
Make and Material of Morning Dresses - As far as we can judge, before the decisive review of Spring Fashions at the fete of Longchamps, a great simplicity will prevail in morning dresses. Peignoirs, both of silk and lined muslin, extremely full, but without ornament; the pelerine or mantilla cape, cut deep on the shoulders, and square behind. The new silk pelisses are chiefly made to open on one side, rouleaux of velvet or satin, are placed on the edge. Some have a chevron and tassels down the opening. The corsage is either tight or wrapping; the latter form does not admit of being made very high, and by changing the morning pelerine for one of lace or a little scarf, these dresses serve also for demi-negliges. Mantles of a very becoming shape will be worn this month in the open carriages; these wraps can be thrown back so as to display the dress, and are at the same time confined to the waist. Black silk mantillas will be likewise fashionable with the fancy muslins, chalis, &c. The only change in the sleeves of morning dresses, is caused by gathering in the fulness below the shoulder, quite flat; an ornament of ribbon, or made in the material of the dress, is sometimes placed there, but as a more general fashion, the gathers are covered by a rouleau, the same being repeated round the cuff. A few dresses we have seen with sleeves tight from the elbow: this mode, however, will not be much followed.
Morning Caps will be worn in muslin as well as tulle, and trimmed with Mechlin or Valenciennes lace. The Marie Stuart, is perhaps, the favourite style, though several rivals have appeared, with barbes of lace or muslin, to which are attached the ribbon; brides seem very prevalent. A pretty caprice we have noticed, worthy our fair readers attention, is a net cap something of the Swiss form, with no other trimming than narrow bands of violet-colour velvet; a bouquet of primroses and violets on one side. Other colours, both in velvet and satin, will be used for the same purpose.
Ensemble of Evening Costume - The new dresses hitherto prepared for the London season are chiefly of light texture. Organdie, tulle, sylphide gauze, or the beautiful gauze satins. If silk or damask satin be worn, these richer textures, like a beauty of advanced age, endeavour to conceal their antiquity by profused ornaments, flowers, blond, or ribbons; on the contrary, the more juvenile dresses are lightly trimmed, and to their simple freshness, owe their attraction; tulle robes over white satin are usually worked with a border of flowers or foliage, in chenille; a fringed white sash hangs in front; crape dresses are trimmed with satin en suite; if worn as full dress, a cordon of flowers goes down the front, or bouquets may be attached to the ends of the sash and fastened to the skirt, half way down. We have seen several crape and tulle dresses looped up on one side over a satin skirt. The drapery thus formed is very graceful and simple. The prevalence of the tight corsage is decided, most frequently it is pointed at the waist, this mode renders some change necessary in arranging the gathers of the skirt (which with a straight corsage, go all round). The most timid imitator of French fashions no longer need tremble at tight short sleeves; for we may confidently assert that they will be universal, though the bouffant trimmings, &c., worn over many, make it difficult to see that the sleeve itself is tight; bouffants of plaited gauze or crape are frequently worn over the top of the corsage, and give a becoming fulness to the shape; but when the dress is of satin, a blond Sevigne cap is preferred. The following dresses have been ordered by distinguished leaders of fashion and may be safely recommended as specimens of good taste: - 1st. A robe of white crape, over a satin skirt, the front embroidered with chenille, in imitation of a coral wreath, tight satin sleeves, with white crape bouillons, separated by little red bows, one having ends which reach the elbow; tight corsage, draped over the bosom. The hair a la Grecque, with branches of coral interwoven. A white satin skirt, trimmed with a rich volant of blond lace festooned with pearls; the front adorned en tablier, with pearl flowers, and leaves in white chenille. Over this rich under-dress is worn a robe of white organdie (the tunic form) bordered with gold; antique stomacher, bound en suite, the front embroidered like the skirt; Venetian sleeves, looped up with pearl tassels, and underneath very short ones of satin; round these latter are placed broad gold armlets. The head-dress, a beautiful turban of white and gold Persian silk, a pearl cordon next the forehead, and very large pearl drops on each side. A pale blue satin robe over a white silk skirt, to which it is fastened by pearl roses; in the centre of each flower a diamond. Tight pointed corsage bound round the waist with pearls; a diamond agraffe in the centre. Lavalliere hat of white satin also bound with pearls; on the left side a long drooping feather (white and blue) at the root of which is an agraffe of diamonds; similar ornaments loop up the blond ruffles falling at the back of the arm rather low, and attached to a tight blue sleeve. - More simple dresses, appropriate to the ball-room and intended for young ladies. A white organdie over pale rose-color satin; the skirt ornamented with three little garlands of roses placed in a spiral form; tight corsage pointed at the waist, a bow in the centre, and on the point: from the latter, hang two ends of ribbon, with a flower attached to each. Another simple dress of white muslin trimmed with bias folds of violet-coloured velvet; bouquets of violets in the hair, and between the plaited tulle ruches which ornament the short tight sleeve. Several of these dresses will be worn at Almack's.
Hats and Bonnets - The capote form for the latter, is at the present moment preferred, and nothing can be prettier than the spring bonnets which have already made their appearance. The favourite colours are lilac, green, and a very delicate tint of rose-colour. White will be always recherche and becoming. Several of these bonnets are cut very short at the sides, so as to display the ringlets, a blond cap being worn underneath; others retain the baissant form, and come close to the cheek; the crowns are plaited in quite a novel style; Spring flowers, and very beautiful light ribbons, have been made expressly to adorn them. Carriage hats are chiefly ornamented with feathers; they are still worn quite evase in front, but not quite so deep on the side; several assume a Spanish form, rising on one side, the feather drooping on the other; very rich figured satins, the patterns small, and raised in relief, are the most admired material for those hats; chip and tuscan straw will be worn towards the end of the month.
Capes and Collars - A new style of lace in imitation of French, is the most fashionable for morning pelerines and mantillas; a double cape, rounded on the shoulders, and with points before, is the admired style. This form is made also in worked muslin, but ladies usually prefer one more simple. Collars are worn small and square: some are lined with satin, and trimmed with swan's-down or lace, like the etole scarfs. Black satin collerets, the ends embroidered and crossed at the throat, or black velvet without any ornament but a bow and two ends are worn with all morning dresses.
Dress Hats, &c. - There never was a fancy more enthusiastically adopted than the La valliere hat or pou, as the Parisians style it. This exquisite coiffure is very small, and placed at the top of the head. A long feather droops on one side low on the neck. Between this shape and the Marie Stuart is a most becoming form which will probably be the favourite evening hat this next month. Those little bords, which give effect to the countenance and do not conceal the hair, are universal favourites. Their form varies, but the principle is the same, feathers are worn with them, and pearls round the edge; the hair behind should not be dressed too high. Turbans are chiefly worn with a fringed end hanging on one side and jewellery in front. The favourite ornament, a bird of Paradise plume, is not so fashionable as a tuft composed of small ostrich feathers dyed some bright color. Dress caps are almost all made with lappets; some have a blond veil fixed behind, garlands of flowers go round the front and are disposed according to different tastes. The flowers should be small and of the most delicate fabric; the ribbons should likewise be softly tinted. A beautiful white fringed ribbon is in request for the purpose. A very fine sylphide gauze is more used than tulle, for the foundation of the cap, blond of course, as the border.
Jewellery - Bouquets formed in variegated stones are much in vogue, they are worn in the hair, on the fronts of turbans, and also of the corsage. Esprits are not so fashionable. The mode of introducing jewels into wreaths of artificial flowers still prevails. When arranged with taste nothing can be more graceful or becoming. The stone (if large) is placed as the eye of the flower; when little sparks are made use if, they are scattered over the leaves or buds; pearls remain unrivalled as the ornament of evening hats and satin dresses; the pointed corsage is also frequently trimmed round the waist with a cordon of large pearls. A favourite novelty consists of a narrow black velvet collar on which is fastened a gold chain or string of pearls. The clasp being some rich jewel, mosaic, or cameo; a second chain hangs lower on the neck and sustains another ornament in the same style, bracelets are likewise made on this plan and have a pretty effect. The Berlin jewellery will be fashionable this spring; it is now manufactured in every variety of pattern, and appears capable of the most elegant designs.
Scarfs - The etoile pattern still prevails, trimmed with blond instead of fur, or with a feather ruche. Persian silk is a favourite material for demi neglige scarfs; the ends fringed and variegated colors introduced in a double stripe above. In full dress nothing is so recherche as the Delhi scarf; this texture is, indeed, the acme of elegance.
Hair Dressing - Ringlets a la Sevigne are very much worn when the ahri is dressed with flowers or wreaths of foliage (which are now all the vogue) but when feathers are worn a more rigid style is chosen, the front hair is parted, the long tresses on each side brought mid-way the cheek and reversed, and the hair behind drawn into a knot a la Grecque. A very graceful mode consists in seperating the long hair into three or four plaits, and winding them round the head till they meet at top where a gold arrow is passed through.
Prevailing Colours for the Month - Pale rose-color, violet, two shades of green, lilac and scabieuse.
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Romantic Era Fashion Plate - April 1836 The World of Fashion
Newest London and Paris Fashions for April, 1836
Morning and Evening Dresses
Fig 1 - A white satin robe, the skirt ornamented on the right side with three bows of blue ribbon, the ends rather long; tight corsage, the centre marked by blue rosettes, and similar ornaments placed on the shoulders of a satin cape edged with blond; short sleeves, the fulness drawn tight into several divisions, finished by deep blond ruffles and blue bows; eastern turban, formed by a blue and gold scarf, a heron's plume on one side; gold necklace, ear-rings and fan.
Fig 2 - Over a rich white satin skirt is worn a pink crape robe, shorter, and rounded off in front; this upper dress is trimmed round with puffings of the crape, entwined with pink satin ribbon, three small pink satin bows likewise ornament the front of the white satin skirt; tight corsage, draped across the bosom and drawn down en coeur with a gold agraffe; tight sleeves with ruffles and pink bows, very scanty sabots at the top, bows and rouleaux of satin; turban a la juive, composed of pink and white sylphide gauze, on the right side a long end fringed.
Fig 3 - Robe of white muslin over a jonquil-colour satin skirt, the front en tablier, and trimmed down each side with spiral twists of blond lace, between the divisions; large jonquil-colour bows; corsage antique, the front formed into a stomacher by blond draperies meeting in a point at the waist; very tight long sleeves, ruffles above the elbow; Vandyked stiff cuffs, and a novel kind of full plaiting just below the ruffle; French cap composed of blond lace, the front assumes a diadem form, and is ornamented with blue flowers; from the crown hangs a long lace veil, covering the back of the neck.
Half-Length Figures
1 - A lilac silk dress with ruffles, and falling drapery of the same across the bosom; lilac ribbons ornament the hair.
2 - A morning dress of white muslin, the corsage covered with a beautiful worked pelerine, the ends crossing just below the waist, and two yellow bows in front; muslin mob-cap, trimmed with bands and bows of yellow ribbon (the brides are muslin, and very wide).
3 - Demi-neglige of white organdie, low corsage; sleeves and cape the same as in the first whole-length; blue satin bonnet with two blue feathers.
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Romantic Era Fashion Plate - April 1836 The World of Fashion
Newest London and Paris Fashions for April, 1836
Morning and Evening Dresses
Fig 1 - A robe of rich Turkish silk, the colour a pale citron, pointed corsage, draped a la Sevigne across the bosom; Venetian sleeves, with deep blond ruffles looped up very high, a cordon of fluted ribbon passing from that point round the arm: citron colour hat, the crown ornamented with two white ostrich and a cock's tail feather: under the brim demi wreaths of primroses: necklace, ear-rings, and bracelets of fine gold.
Fig 2 - A robe a l'antique of pale green silk, trimmed down on one side of the skirt, with rouleaux and bows of satin, the same marking the centre of the corsage, over the upper part is a plaited cape, festooned and edged with blond. The sleeves reach nearly to the elbow, have deep ruffles, and the fulness drawn quite tight, in two divisions, each marked by a bow of satin. The hair dressed in full curls at the sides, high behind, with a branch of the French damask rose. Long gold ear-rings and neck chain en suite.
Fig 3 - Lilac-grey silk pelisse. The corsage half high; a pelerine cape, trimmed en coeur, with a ribbon ruche. Muslin chemisette, fastening behind; full long sleeves, narrow cuffs, and gold bracelets. From the waist hang three cordons of puffed ribbon, a bow at the end of each. Rose-colour silk bonnet, tied close under the chin, and trimmed with a broad pink and white sarsenet ribbon; primrose gloves; stone-colour silk boots with very short fronts of black kid.
Half-Length Figures
1 - A fashionable coiffure en cheveux, ornamented with variegated flowers of the Reine Marguerite; the foliage brought below the ear.
2 - Another; the hair in braids on each side, with rosettes of pink ribbons, and a coronet plait behind, to which is fixed a rich lace veil falling over the shoulders.
3 - Front view of the 1st half-length; shows the arrangement of the curls and mode of parting on the forehead.
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Elite of Parisian Fashions
For the last fortnight the Opera has assembled in Paris all that we ever wish to look upon - the beautiful, the joyous, the noble and the young. Two novelties appear to occupy the minds of French women: - viz. the Valliere hat, a most coquettish coiffure, and peculiarly adapted to the countenance of a Parisian belle: hitherto they have been made in velvet, but satin, crape, and tulle will now be the materials; the hair requires to be very elegantly dressed, and the feathers should be long and gracefully drooping on one side. A second attraction consists in the exquisite blond and lace dresses, rivalling each other in the French emporiums of taste; these dresses display the most beautiful designs in flowers, foliage or arabesques; the latter interwoven with oak leaves, is a truly recherche design; all the patterns are imitated in blond gauze, and these more moderate priced robes are made up in the most elegant style as ball-dresses; several of them were worn and much admired at the first representation of les Huguenots.
Hats - A demi-neglige hat, truly Parisian, will be worn this spring; the brim erect in front, comes low and close upon the cheek; there is a little curtain behind; the crown is round and about four inches deep; a feather is placed just behind the front of the brim, and droops on one side; to the back of the crown is usually fixed a lace veil. We fear that caprice will lead our ever changeable neighbours to make a too great contrast between the fashions of this season and the last. The hat brims, which used to be brought almost under the chin are now frequently cut almost straight to the ear, giving the hat more depth in front, and the effect of a higher crown: as a general mode we should decidedly pronounce it unbecoming.
Artificial Flowers are worn with more foliage than of late; indeed, the most fashionable wreaths are entirely green. The oak, the vine, the gooseberry-branch - are now twined round the head of beauty, and certainly nothing gives a more piquante effect, particularly to dark hair. The white moss and blush rose are very much used for trimming ball-dresses. So many dresses are embroidered in flowers that those garlands worn with them must of course assimilate: bouquets of the forget-me-not, of violets, and primroses, are made so exquisitely, that it is difficult to believe them artificial. Wreaths of fruit are very fashionable, and some French specimens we have seen are truly beautiful.
Fans - Feather fans, with a little glass in the centre, were the most universally used at the Opera last week. The stick should be highly ornamented. The antique fan, large, and beautifully painted is still in vogue, but the novelty of this month is an ivory fan, inlaid with gold and turquoises, with a medallion in the centre.
Gloves - With short sleeves, the fashionable white gloves comes only just above the wrist, the tops fringed or trimmed with a satin ruche; short gloves are embroidered; silk gloves have all of them a lace pattern; the most fashionable black mittens are very open in the work, resembling the most old fashioned black lace. Coloured mittens will be worn with boudoir dresses.
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Romantic Era Fashion Plate - April 1836 The World of Fashion
Newest London and Paris Fashions for April, 1836
Opera and Ball Dresses
Fig 1 - A robe of straw-colour satin, looped up over a white silk skirt, with a golden chain and arrow. Tight corsage and Sevigne blond cape, having an agraffe in the centre of the bosom, and on each shoulder; blond chemisette and pearl necklace; tight long sleeves, open Spanish ones over them, lined with white silk, and confined at intervals by armlets of rubies and gold; straw-colour hat, the Andalusian shape, having a bouquet of roses under the elevated side of the brim, and two straw-colour and white feathers drooping over the other.
Fig 2 - A dove-colour satin dress; pointed corsage, straight over the bosom, and bordered with gold; Venetian sleeves of white seraphine gauze, Vandyked at the edge, and striped with gold lama; black satin Valliere hat, and plume of pink feathers fastened with a gold brooch; feather fan, the handle gold.
Fig 3 - A blue satin skirt, over which is a white muslin robe, much shorted, looped up in a point at the centre, with a blue bow. This dress opens on one side, another bow confining it at the hem; tight corsage, with plaits, en coeur, over the bosom; short tight sleeves of the blue satin, edged with a tulle ruche; Venetian shaped muslin ones above; puce color velvet hat, with a bandeau underneath adorned by silver studs; a Spanish white plume on one side.
Half-Length Figures
1 - Reversed view of the first whole-length, the dress represented in green silk; the hat likewise green, and a white plume.
2 and 3 - Side and front view of a Court head-dress. The plume separated, one part rising high behind the bows of hair; the rest drooping on the shoulder from ringlets on the left side. Gold forehead chain, passing across to the back of the head.
4 - Lilac satin dress; double sabot short sleeves; tulle scarf and cap: the latter lined with lilac, trimmed with Vandyked blond, and having a small plume of lilac feathers drooping behind.
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Romantic Era Fashion Plate - April 1836 The World of Fashion
Newest London and Paris Fashions for April, 1836
Morning and Evening Dresses
Fig 1 - An opera cloak of sky-blue satin, trimmed with swan's-down; the skirts about half a yard shorter than the dress, and sloped away in front; at the point, where the slope begins, is placed a blue satin bow, which comprises the upper part; the hanging sleeves are wide and long; the cape hangs in long points before, to which are attached gold tassels: under this elegant dress, appears a robe of straw colour silk. The head dress consists of a blue toque adorned with white feathers, and mounted on a gold bandeau, in front of which are large rubies set in gold; white gloves and shoes; gold fan.
Fig 2 - A bright green skirt, over which is a white crape dress, cut round the hem in fine deep scollops, and trimmed with Vandyked lace; the front division is drawn up on each side with large knots of green and gold ribbon, similar ornaments are on the short sleeves, which, tight at the top, have a sabot trimmed with lace underneath. The corsage tight, with a falling lace tucker. The hair in flat braids interwoven with the green and gold ribbon. White gloves and slippers.
Fig 3 - A morning dress of pale blue silk, opening en redingote on the left side, and trimmed down with a narrow twisted rouleau of red ribbon; tight corsage and falling worked muslin collar; full sleeves, the shoulder-straps formed by a double rouleau; cuffs, ornamented en suite. French peasants' cap of white muslin, pink ribbons and two branches of the pink bird weed. Primrose gloves; black kid slippers.
Half-Length Figures
1 - Reversed view of the second whole-length; the dress represented white, the ribbons purple and gold.
2 and 3 - The reversed and side view of an evening dress; the first represented in straw colour, the other in pale pink; both have draped corsages. Short sleeves composed of six narrow sabots, blond ruffles, and bows upon the shoulders. Rosettes, en suite, in the hair (which is dressed in Sevigne ringlets). A bow with long ends placed on the knot of hair behind; bandeau of pearls.
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Romantic Era Fashion Plate - April 1836 The World of Fashion
Newest London and Paris Fashions for April, 1836
Evening Dresses
Fig 1 - A pink glace satin robe, looped up over a white silk skirt, with a golden arrow, crescent and star; tight corsage, and blond lace Sevigne cape, a gold star in the centre; rose-colour sash formed by a fringed scarf, the ends tied loosely in front; tight short sleeves, and deep blond ruffles looped up with a pink bow; necklace composed of gold stars, the clasp, a crescent; the hair arranged in plaits and braids, through them are drawn golden arrows, the star and crescent rising in front; feather fan richly mounted in gold.
Fig 2 - A robe of pale citron-colour crape over white satin, the skirt trimmed down on one side with three garlands of puffed ribbon, each headed by a pink rose; tight corsage, the point rounded and draped over the bosom, two bows mark the centre; Venetian sleeves, lined with white satin, and trimmed with a quilling of the same; on the shoulders small bows, whence descend demi-wreaths of roses crossing the sleeve; head-dress composed of six small white ostrich feathers placed low on each side, three roses and a bandeau of leaves; gold neck-chain and bracelets: white and gold fan.
Fig 3 - A pale blue satin dress, the skirt trimmed on each side of the front breadth with a double line of pearls, formed into lozenges, and ending in bows and tassels; tight pointed corsage, draped over the bosom, and trimmed round the waist with pearls; triple sabot short sleeves, the lozenges and tassels crossing from each shoulder to the back of the arm; ruby-colour hat, trimmed with pearls, three white feathers placed on one side, and a long blond veil fixed to the crown behind.
Half-Length Figures
1. - Reversed view of the first whole-length, the dress represented white, with a blue sash and scarf.
2 and 3. - Front and side view of a fashionable coiffure en cheveux. The side-hair in Sevigne curls, the rest formed into twining plaits, ornamented with a garland of vine leaves, in the front a gold agraffe; pearl necklace and ear-rings clasped with gold.
4. - A dress of white organdie, with long sleeves and a low body; round the neck a falling tucker of Mechlin lace, pink sash and shoulder knots; a pink fringed scarf gracefully drawn through the hair.
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Cursory Remarks on the Last New Fashions<br />
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There are but few changes now to be looked for in fashion's hemisphere, at this season. Whatever advancement may take place in what is really tasteful and elegant in female attire, is but slight; we shall therefore record only what is most in general favor, except where there has been, in some few instances, any marked alteration.<br />
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Printed muslins and chintzes were very prevalent during the month of August, and are likely to be still in request at the commencement of September for half dress; the grounds of these materials are of the most delicate and beautiful tints, and they have often a running pattern of variously-colored Indian flowers; the most admired, however, is of the lightest shade of pea-green, with a delicate figure on it of dark violet. Dresses of muslin, generally clear, and trimmed with lace, and those of colored crape, or gauze, over slips of white satin, are most prevalent at balls in the country. The dresses are, for the most part, made square, across the bust, with a drapery a la Sevigne, and are cut very low on the shoulders. At dress parties, many ladies partially cover this nude appearance by an elegant pelerine of blond, with a frill border of very handsome Vndyked blond. THe petticoats are stll worn short, and the skirts of the gowns are set in, very full round the waist. e favourite long sleeves are yet a l'imbecille; and at the top are frill mancherons.<br />
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The hair is arranged in ringlets, or clustered curls, next the face, as best accords with the fancy or features of the wearer; plaited braids and bows adorn the summit of the head: a few flowers are interspersed with the tresses, on particular occasions; but according to that simplicity of style, usually observed in the country, during the summer months, young ladies seldom add any ornament to the native beauty of a fine head of hair, well dressed. Dress hat are often of white crape, trimmed with white satin ribbon: they are generally ornamented with bouquets of field-flowers, or with garden-lilies. A wide bonnet of pink figured satin is much admired for morning visits; it is elegantly trimmed on the crown with large bows of white gauze ribbon, with pink satin stripes, and a superb white broad blond falls from the edge of the brim: we mention this among the dress hats, for it is too conspicuous for any gentlewoman to wear at the summer promenade. The blond caps worn in home costume are very tasteful, - they are seldom seen with flowers; but the ribbons with which they are trimmed are very rich and beautiful, both as to color and design: they are elegantly ornamented with these, and more in taste than in profusion.<br />
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A favourite out-door covering is a pelerine of black velvet, or one the same as the dress, if that dress is of gros de Maples: these graceful auxiliaries are of an entire new form to those worn last autumn, - they are pointed at the termination behind, and from thence carried up on each side, in a gradual direction; the ends in front, which are confined under the sash, reach nearly to the feet: the pelerine, when of black velvet, is lined throughout, with bright rose-color, cherry-color, or rock-geranium, in sarcenet. For young persons, nothing is more fashionable for the promenade than a petticoat of Levantine, or gros de Naples, with a white muslin Spencer, with very full sleeves. Silk pelisses are now becoming more general, - the most beautiful we have seen was the green of the reversed side of the sage-leaf; it was elegantly finished round in ruche trimming, about the bust and down the front where it closed, which was on one side: next to this we admired one of fawn-colored taffety, made extremely plain, and fitting close to the form. An open pelisse also of figured gros de Naples, of a puce-color, looks well at this season over a handsomely embroidered muslin petticoat. The hats and bonnets are worn very backward, but have all a deep blond at the edge of the brim, which partially conceals the face, which, without this appendage would be entirely exposed. On light blue silk bonnets, and also on those of Hortensia, and of pink, many ladies have now lain aside the white blond at the edge, and substituted the black: this may be more accordant with the declining season, but is not near so becoming as the white. Veils are worn with bonnets that are without trimming. When flowers are worn in carriage hats, they are generally of the harvest kind, with a few ears of corn, in bouquets.<br />
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The favourite colors are sage-leaf-green, marsh-mallow-blossom, fawn-color, buff, pink, and etherial-blue.<br />
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The Ladies' Toilet<br />
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Fashions Represented in the Engravings<br />
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Carriage Dress - A petticoat of celestial-blue gros de Naples, with a broad hem round the border, headed by two very narrow rouleaux. Canezn Spencer of white jacanot muslin; the body full, and sleeves a l'imbecille, with double frill mancherons. A bonnet of white watered gros de Naples, ornamented under the brim by points of celestial-blue satin; two ostrich feathers, turning back over the crown, after being fixed at its base, adorn this tasteful and becoming bonnet: this plumage is white, slightly tinged with blue; the strings float loose, and the bonnet is confined under the chin by a narrower ribbon.<br />
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Evening Dress - A dress of amber-colored taffety, with a broad hem at the border; above which is a painted wreath of vine leaves and their tendrils, in brown; the sash is painted to correspond; the body is made tight to the shape, with a Sevigne drapery across the bust, with a splendid ornament of flowers in the centre, formed of pearls; the sleeves very short, and consisting of falling frills or rich white blond; on each shoulder is a rosette of amber silk, in pointed leaves, bound with white satin. The head-dress is a beret of amber crape, with a small portion of white satin ribbon; one superb white feather is placed under the brim, and, waving in a spiral direction, reclines, though in a towering position, over the crown. The necklace consists of one row of large pearls, fastened in front with a St. Andrew's cross of diamonds. The ear-pendants are of wrought gold. Bracelets of dark hair, clasped by a brooch of red cornelian, set in gold.<br />
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General Monthly Statement of Fashion<br />
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Among the novelties in carriage dress for the present month, are mantles of Pomona-green Gros de Naples, lined with rose-color. They have a high collar, are rather pointed in the centre of the back and at each corner, and have a single deep round cape of the pelerine form: the trimming consists of three narrow welts of satin, disposed in a wave all round. These cloaks have a very elegant appearance. Pelisses of rose-colored silk are also very fashionable for the carriage; they are trimmed all round, with three French tucks falling one over the other: the collar, cuffs, and mancherons to correspond.<br />
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We have likewise to describe a very novel and tasteful pelisse: it is composed of very dark grey velvet, and lined with scarlet; the back has a little fullness at the bottom, and the waist is rather shorter than they have lately been worn. The collar stands out a good deal from the neck, and is cut very high. The sleeve is tight, and simply finished at the bottom with narrow folds of satin. The trimming is composed of an intermixture of satin, a shade lighter than the pelisse, and grey velvet: it is arranged in the form of palm-leaves, which are large and have a very striking effect. Full epaulettes, ornamented with leaves the same form as the trimming, meeting at the bottom of the epaulette, and going up in a sloping direction to each point of the shoulder.<br />
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Leghorn bonnets, adorned with full branches of corn-flowers, are partially worn in morning carriage-dress: they are small, and of the cottage shape. Toque hats, to correspond in color with the mantle or pelisse, are very general, and of a very becoming shape: the cap attached to them is a demi-cornette, with a full but rather narrow border of blond. These hats are composed of a new fancy silk, the ground of which resmebles Gros de Naples, with small satin lozenges thrown up: the crown is low; the brim of a round shape, but a little bent in front, a very full plume of white marabouts is placed on one side, tipped with the color of the hat. Veils of Urling's patent lace are very general.<br />
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Silks are now much worn for dinner dresses. We have observed a beautiful trimming formed of gauze, interspersed with embroidery in floss silk, resembling short plumes of down feathers: a gauze ruche finishes this trimming at the bottom, headed by a wreath of satin shells.<br />
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Poplin dresses have also made their appearance; they are made partially low, the waist in the form of a sheaf; the border trimmed with a cluster of rouleaux nearly touching each other, and forming pointed wavings; the epaulettes consist of sharp stiffened points, falling one over the other; the sleeves fit close to the arm: and the cuffs to correspond; a fine muslin collar falls over the back and shoulders, edged with two full rows of Urlings' patent lace.<br />
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We have likewise seen some beautiful ball dresses, the first consisting of fine net tastefully ornamented with a broad border of flowers in embossed crape, between which are small stars of polished steel. The corsage is of white satin, in the Greek style, the crape drapery of which is confined by a strp of white satin: the sleeves are of crape, ornamented by rouleaux of satin, lengthwise. The second is of tulle, worn over a white satin slip, with a puckered border of tulle, confined by rouleaux in white satin points, each point finished by a rosette of the same: the sleeves are very short, and the puckerings confined by rouleaux of satin, in diamonds, and white rosettes; the corsage is of white satin, and an elegant gauze scarf is worn over the dress. The hair is arranged in bows and curls, interspersed with full-blown roses.<br />
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Dresses of Waterloo blue sarsnet are much in favour for evening parties; they are trimmed round the border with a full rouleau and leaves of satin; the body is made in the form of a sheaf, the sleeves are short, very much puffed out, and ornamented with lappets of blue satin, each finished by a button, and the sleeve terminated by a quilling of blond. A fichu, with a double lace collar, of Urlings' patent lace, turning back, is worn underneath the dress.<br />
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Cornette turbans are much in favor for home dress. They are made of beautifully checquered gauze, which is tastefully twisted round the head, above a quilling of fine blond, which is next the face. Turbans of colored satin are also much worn; the favorite ornament is a bird of Paradise plume.<br />
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The favorite colors for pelisses and silk dresses are Persian lilac, Waterloo-blue, Pomona-green, and dark grey.<br />
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The Parisian Toilet<br />
When the weather is mild, the general walking-dress consists of a pelisse of Lyonese silk, beautifully spotted, and trimmed down the front with two rows of trefoil, in satin, the color of the spots.<br />
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Bonnets of pink silk are much worn, with ears formed of white satin edged with blond, and a pink satin rouleau. For morning walks, bonnets of Gros de Naples, the color la Valliere, bound with blue, and ornamented with thistles, are greatly admired. The hats are larger than they were last month, and are more covered with flowers, particularly the Leghorn hats; though some have no other ornament than a branch of oak leaves.<br />
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The most esteemed evening dress consists of a ponceau net, worn over a satin slip of the same color: the net dress is bordered by a puckered rouleau of white satin, headed by silver lama: short sleeves of white, headed by ponceau ornaments, mixed with silver. With this elegnt dress are worn a gold girdle and bracelets, with a sautoir of Barege silk of celestial blue color beautifully embroidered with silver lama.<br />
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Ball dresses are chiefly of tulle over white satin slips; they are trimmed with a very broad and rich border of cockle-shells, formed of silk, each shell very beautifully ornamented by finely wrought silk beading. The corsage is of white satn, made full, with small plaits across the bust, and ornamented down the front by a row of small, and exquisitely wrought buttons. The short sleeves are made to correspond with the corsage, and the buttons are on the outside of the arm. The hair is arranged a la Ceres, in curls and bows, and ornamented with rubies.<br />
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The favorite head-dresses for evening parties, are turbans of white gauze, bound together by diamonds, or by gold and rubies. Small caps of blond are worn under hats, and fasten under the chin. Dress hats are placed considerably backward, and much on one side.<br />
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The most esteemed articles in jewellery consist of Egyptian pebbles, and crosses of rubies or pearls. Girdles of gold and morocco leather, fastened with a pearl buckle, are also in great estimation. The ear-rings are set in the form of stars.<br />
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The favorite colors are la Valliere, lilac, celestial blue, and rose-color.<br />
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