Romantic Era Fashion Chit Chat - August 1829 Ladies' Pocket Magazine
Cursory Remarks on the Last New Fashions
The watering-places are now beginning to fill; and fashion and beauty assemble at each of them, in multitudes. The rural dance, and the enlivening concert, present their attractions, and the fine and improved air of a brilliant metropolis is deserted, with all its comforts, for dear and inconvenient lodgings, the imposition of hotel-keepers, and the intrusions of a mixed kind of society, which cannot always be guarded against.
Such, however, is the despotism of fashion. Who could think of remaining in London, when every member of the modish world is leaving it? Against our better judgment we must follow in their train, and investigate, with care and precision, what costumes are most prevalent among the higher orders.
Though sarcenet, Levantine, and Indian taffety, seem the favorite silks for summer wear, yet nothing is reckoned more elegant for demi-parure, than a dress of gros de Naples, wither of stone-color, or of claret-color: the gowns are made partially low, square across the bust, with sleeves a l'Amadis, and two broad bias folds round the border of the skirt: a dress, made in the same manner, of corn-flower blue, is also much admired. As the sleeves a ;'Amadis, are equally in fashion with those a l'imbecille, ladies, who are fond of moderation in their compliance with fashion, wisely prefer the former: they, too, are extremely wide at the top of the arm to the elbow; but at the smaller part, next the wrist, they almost fit close, and do not appear so preposterous as those a l'imbecille, and are less gauche than the sleeves a la Mameluke. Dresses of batiste, striped in various colors, are much worn in home costume, as are printed muslins; many of these are of the most beautiful patterns of various colors, on a white, or very light-colored ground. These dresses have generally a very broad hem round the border, over which are two bias folds, set separately at an equal distance: the body is en gerbe in front, and plain at the back. Evening dresses, when colored, either of crape, sarcenet, or muslin, have short sleeves, the same as the dress, over which are white transparent long ones a l'imbecille; - these are generally of tulle. A full fluted flounce often ornaments the border, over which are bias folds as high as the knee, or two ruches.
The caps for evening costume are very elegant, and are chiefly of the turban kind; they are of colored crape, or of broad rich blond; the former in bias, and elegantly caught up on each temple, where bouquets of flowers are placed; when of blond, the borders are turned entirely back, and the ribbons and flowers lie on the hair. The dress hats for the country are now frequently of white chip; they are lined with colored crape, and ornamented with branches of heath in blossom, or small esprit feathers. Young persons still continue to wear their tresses charmingly and becomingly arranged, without any ornament; even at balls, where a certain style of dress is required, only a few flowers are added. Berets and turbans of crape are yet worn by matrons at evening and dinner dress parties.
Bonnets of white and of colored gros de Naples are much in request; they are trimmed with puffs of the same round the crown, in a truly elegant and simple manner: a broad rich white blond finishes these bonnets at the edge of the brim. For the morning promenade, and for early shopping, nothing is reckoned more genteel than a bonnet of Dunstable straw, lined with some bright summer color; a ribbon crossing the crown, of the same color, from which, without any rosette, are formed the strings: these bonnets are universally worn by ladies when walking in the park or gardens of a nobleman's or gentleman's country seat: the riding hats are all now of black beaver. Leghorn hats, though they never will be out of fashion, are seldom seen at the promenade; they seem confined to the carriage, and are of extreme fineness; they are usually ornamented with flowers now in season: the puffs of ribbon with which they are trimmed are long, and the strings float loose.
The pelisses are made chiefly in the wrapping style, with the body a la Circassienne; but pelisses are not very much worn. Shawls of Chinese and of Cyprus crape are infinitely more in request: we greatly admire the former: they set beautifully to the form, keep out the chill air, yet never appear too warm for the short summers of our uncertain climate: the Cyprus crape shawls are very pretty; but they are so easily imitated that they are become extremely common. A few muslin pelisses have appeared at Tunbridge, and other places of fashionable resort; but they are by no means general: the weather was cold during the commencement of July, and the fashionable pedestrian, thus enveloped, was compelled to add a shawl of Chinese crape, forming thereby a very pretty costume.
The favorite colors are garnet, yellow, celestial-blue, stone-color, spring-green, Parma-violet, and lavender.
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