Romantic Era Fashion Chit-Chat - November 1823 Ladies' Monthly Museum

Romantic Era Fashion Chit-Chat - November 1823 Ladies' Monthly Museum

General Monthly Statement of Fashion

Among the novelties in carriage dress for the present month, are mantles of Pomona-green Gros de Naples, lined with rose-color. They have a high collar, are rather pointed in the centre of the back and at each corner, and have a single deep round cape of the pelerine form: the trimming consists of three narrow welts of satin, disposed in a wave all round. These cloaks have a very elegant appearance. Pelisses of rose-colored silk are also very fashionable for the carriage; they are trimmed all round, with three French tucks falling one over the other: the collar, cuffs, and mancherons to correspond.

We have likewise to describe a very novel and tasteful pelisse: it is composed of very dark grey velvet, and lined with scarlet; the back has a little fullness at the bottom, and the waist is rather shorter than they have lately been worn. The collar stands out a good deal from the neck, and is cut very high. The sleeve is tight, and simply finished at the bottom with narrow folds of satin. The trimming is composed of an intermixture of satin, a shade lighter than the pelisse, and grey velvet: it is arranged in the form of palm-leaves, which are large and have a very striking effect. Full epaulettes, ornamented with leaves the same form as the trimming, meeting at the bottom of the epaulette, and going up in a sloping direction to each point of the shoulder.

Leghorn bonnets, adorned with full branches of corn-flowers, are partially worn in morning carriage-dress: they are small, and of the cottage shape. Toque hats, to correspond in color with the mantle or pelisse, are very general, and of a very becoming shape: the cap attached to them is a demi-cornette, with a full but rather narrow border of blond. These hats are composed of a new fancy silk, the ground of which resmebles Gros de Naples, with small satin lozenges thrown up: the crown is low; the brim of a round shape, but a little bent in front, a very full plume of white marabouts is placed on one side, tipped with the color of the hat. Veils of Urling's patent lace are very general.

Silks are now much worn for dinner dresses. We have observed a beautiful trimming formed of gauze, interspersed with embroidery in floss silk, resembling short plumes of down feathers: a gauze ruche finishes this trimming at the bottom, headed by a wreath of satin shells.

Poplin dresses have also made their appearance; they are made partially low, the waist in the form of a sheaf; the border trimmed with a cluster of rouleaux nearly touching each other, and forming pointed wavings; the epaulettes consist of sharp stiffened points, falling one over the other; the sleeves fit close to the arm: and the cuffs to correspond; a fine muslin collar falls over the back and shoulders, edged with two full rows of Urlings' patent lace.

We have likewise seen some beautiful ball dresses, the first consisting of fine net tastefully ornamented with a broad border of flowers in embossed crape, between which are small stars of polished steel. The corsage is of white satin, in the Greek style, the crape drapery of which is confined by a strp of white satin: the sleeves are of crape, ornamented by rouleaux of satin, lengthwise. The second is of tulle, worn over a white satin slip, with a puckered border of tulle, confined by rouleaux in white satin points, each point finished by a rosette of the same: the sleeves are very short, and the puckerings confined by rouleaux of satin, in diamonds, and white rosettes; the corsage is of white satin, and an elegant gauze scarf is worn over the dress. The hair is arranged in bows and curls, interspersed with full-blown roses.

Dresses of Waterloo blue sarsnet are much in favour for evening parties; they are trimmed round the border with a full rouleau and leaves of satin; the body is made in the form of a sheaf, the sleeves are short, very much puffed out, and ornamented with lappets of blue satin, each finished by a button, and the sleeve terminated by a quilling of blond. A fichu, with a double lace collar, of Urlings' patent lace, turning back, is worn underneath the dress.

Cornette turbans are much in favor for home dress. They are made of beautifully checquered gauze, which is tastefully twisted round the head, above a quilling of fine blond, which is next the face. Turbans of colored satin are also much worn; the favorite ornament is a bird of Paradise plume.

The favorite colors for pelisses and silk dresses are Persian lilac, Waterloo-blue, Pomona-green, and dark grey.


The Parisian Toilet
When the weather is mild, the general walking-dress consists of a pelisse of Lyonese silk, beautifully spotted, and trimmed down the front with two rows of trefoil, in satin, the color of the spots.

Bonnets of pink silk are much worn, with ears formed of white satin edged with blond, and a pink satin rouleau. For morning walks, bonnets of Gros de Naples, the color la Valliere, bound with blue, and ornamented with thistles, are greatly admired. The hats are larger than they were last month, and are more covered with flowers, particularly the Leghorn hats; though some have no other ornament than a branch of oak leaves.

The most esteemed evening dress consists of a ponceau net, worn over a satin slip of the same color: the net dress is bordered by a puckered rouleau of white satin, headed by silver lama: short sleeves of white, headed by ponceau ornaments, mixed with silver. With this elegnt dress are worn a gold girdle and bracelets, with a sautoir of Barege silk of celestial blue color beautifully embroidered with silver lama.

Ball dresses are chiefly of tulle over white satin slips; they are trimmed with a very broad and rich border of cockle-shells, formed of silk, each shell very beautifully ornamented by finely wrought silk beading. The corsage is of white satn, made full, with small plaits across the bust, and ornamented down the front by a row of small, and exquisitely wrought buttons. The short sleeves are made to correspond with the corsage, and the buttons are on the outside of the arm. The hair is arranged a la Ceres, in curls and bows, and ornamented with rubies.

The favorite head-dresses for evening parties, are turbans of white gauze, bound together by diamonds, or by gold and rubies. Small caps of blond are worn under hats, and fasten under the chin. Dress hats are placed considerably backward, and much on one side.

The most esteemed articles in jewellery consist of Egyptian pebbles, and crosses of rubies or pearls. Girdles of gold and morocco leather, fastened with a pearl buckle, are also in great estimation. The ear-rings are set in the form of stars.

The favorite colors are la Valliere, lilac, celestial blue, and rose-color.