Romantic Era Fashion Chit Chat - April 1836 The World of Fashion

Romantic Era Fashion Chit Chat - April 1836 The World of Fashion London Fashions for April We never commenced Spring under happier auspices for Fashion; the court is to be a scene of successive gaieties, imitated, doubtless, by all our brilliant world. The costumes, both evening and morning, combine all that can be imagined capable of enhancing (or rather let us say displaying) our fair countrywomen's beauty. Heaven grant them health and joy to complete their triumphs. Make and Material of Morning Dresses - As far as we can judge, before the decisive review of Spring Fashions at the fete of Longchamps, a great simplicity will prevail in morning dresses. Peignoirs, both of silk and lined muslin, extremely full, but without ornament; the pelerine or mantilla cape, cut deep on the shoulders, and square behind. The new silk pelisses are chiefly made to open on one side, rouleaux of velvet or satin, are placed on the edge. Some have a chevron and tassels down the opening. The corsage is either tight or wrapping; the latter form does not admit of being made very high, and by changing the morning pelerine for one of lace or a little scarf, these dresses serve also for demi-negliges. Mantles of a very becoming shape will be worn this month in the open carriages; these wraps can be thrown back so as to display the dress, and are at the same time confined to the waist. Black silk mantillas will be likewise fashionable with the fancy muslins, chalis, &c. The only change in the sleeves of morning dresses, is caused by gathering in the fulness below the shoulder, quite flat; an ornament of ribbon, or made in the material of the dress, is sometimes placed there, but as a more general fashion, the gathers are covered by a rouleau, the same being repeated round the cuff. A few dresses we have seen with sleeves tight from the elbow: this mode, however, will not be much followed. Morning Caps will be worn in muslin as well as tulle, and trimmed with Mechlin or Valenciennes lace. The Marie Stuart, is perhaps, the favourite style, though several rivals have appeared, with barbes of lace or muslin, to which are attached the ribbon; brides seem very prevalent. A pretty caprice we have noticed, worthy our fair readers attention, is a net cap something of the Swiss form, with no other trimming than narrow bands of violet-colour velvet; a bouquet of primroses and violets on one side. Other colours, both in velvet and satin, will be used for the same purpose. Ensemble of Evening Costume - The new dresses hitherto prepared for the London season are chiefly of light texture. Organdie, tulle, sylphide gauze, or the beautiful gauze satins. If silk or damask satin be worn, these richer textures, like a beauty of advanced age, endeavour to conceal their antiquity by profused ornaments, flowers, blond, or ribbons; on the contrary, the more juvenile dresses are lightly trimmed, and to their simple freshness, owe their attraction; tulle robes over white satin are usually worked with a border of flowers or foliage, in chenille; a fringed white sash hangs in front; crape dresses are trimmed with satin en suite; if worn as full dress, a cordon of flowers goes down the front, or bouquets may be attached to the ends of the sash and fastened to the skirt, half way down. We have seen several crape and tulle dresses looped up on one side over a satin skirt. The drapery thus formed is very graceful and simple. The prevalence of the tight corsage is decided, most frequently it is pointed at the waist, this mode renders some change necessary in arranging the gathers of the skirt (which with a straight corsage, go all round). The most timid imitator of French fashions no longer need tremble at tight short sleeves; for we may confidently assert that they will be universal, though the bouffant trimmings, &c., worn over many, make it difficult to see that the sleeve itself is tight; bouffants of plaited gauze or crape are frequently worn over the top of the corsage, and give a becoming fulness to the shape; but when the dress is of satin, a blond Sevigne cap is preferred. The following dresses have been ordered by distinguished leaders of fashion and may be safely recommended as specimens of good taste: - 1st. A robe of white crape, over a satin skirt, the front embroidered with chenille, in imitation of a coral wreath, tight satin sleeves, with white crape bouillons, separated by little red bows, one having ends which reach the elbow; tight corsage, draped over the bosom. The hair a la Grecque, with branches of coral interwoven. A white satin skirt, trimmed with a rich volant of blond lace festooned with pearls; the front adorned en tablier, with pearl flowers, and leaves in white chenille. Over this rich under-dress is worn a robe of white organdie (the tunic form) bordered with gold; antique stomacher, bound en suite, the front embroidered like the skirt; Venetian sleeves, looped up with pearl tassels, and underneath very short ones of satin; round these latter are placed broad gold armlets. The head-dress, a beautiful turban of white and gold Persian silk, a pearl cordon next the forehead, and very large pearl drops on each side. A pale blue satin robe over a white silk skirt, to which it is fastened by pearl roses; in the centre of each flower a diamond. Tight pointed corsage bound round the waist with pearls; a diamond agraffe in the centre. Lavalliere hat of white satin also bound with pearls; on the left side a long drooping feather (white and blue) at the root of which is an agraffe of diamonds; similar ornaments loop up the blond ruffles falling at the back of the arm rather low, and attached to a tight blue sleeve. - More simple dresses, appropriate to the ball-room and intended for young ladies. A white organdie over pale rose-color satin; the skirt ornamented with three little garlands of roses placed in a spiral form; tight corsage pointed at the waist, a bow in the centre, and on the point: from the latter, hang two ends of ribbon, with a flower attached to each. Another simple dress of white muslin trimmed with bias folds of violet-coloured velvet; bouquets of violets in the hair, and between the plaited tulle ruches which ornament the short tight sleeve. Several of these dresses will be worn at Almack's. Hats and Bonnets - The capote form for the latter, is at the present moment preferred, and nothing can be prettier than the spring bonnets which have already made their appearance. The favourite colours are lilac, green, and a very delicate tint of rose-colour. White will be always recherche and becoming. Several of these bonnets are cut very short at the sides, so as to display the ringlets, a blond cap being worn underneath; others retain the baissant form, and come close to the cheek; the crowns are plaited in quite a novel style; Spring flowers, and very beautiful light ribbons, have been made expressly to adorn them. Carriage hats are chiefly ornamented with feathers; they are still worn quite evase in front, but not quite so deep on the side; several assume a Spanish form, rising on one side, the feather drooping on the other; very rich figured satins, the patterns small, and raised in relief, are the most admired material for those hats; chip and tuscan straw will be worn towards the end of the month. Capes and Collars - A new style of lace in imitation of French, is the most fashionable for morning pelerines and mantillas; a double cape, rounded on the shoulders, and with points before, is the admired style. This form is made also in worked muslin, but ladies usually prefer one more simple. Collars are worn small and square: some are lined with satin, and trimmed with swan's-down or lace, like the etole scarfs. Black satin collerets, the ends embroidered and crossed at the throat, or black velvet without any ornament but a bow and two ends are worn with all morning dresses. Dress Hats, &c. - There never was a fancy more enthusiastically adopted than the La valliere hat or pou, as the Parisians style it. This exquisite coiffure is very small, and placed at the top of the head. A long feather droops on one side low on the neck. Between this shape and the Marie Stuart is a most becoming form which will probably be the favourite evening hat this next month. Those little bords, which give effect to the countenance and do not conceal the hair, are universal favourites. Their form varies, but the principle is the same, feathers are worn with them, and pearls round the edge; the hair behind should not be dressed too high. Turbans are chiefly worn with a fringed end hanging on one side and jewellery in front. The favourite ornament, a bird of Paradise plume, is not so fashionable as a tuft composed of small ostrich feathers dyed some bright color. Dress caps are almost all made with lappets; some have a blond veil fixed behind, garlands of flowers go round the front and are disposed according to different tastes. The flowers should be small and of the most delicate fabric; the ribbons should likewise be softly tinted. A beautiful white fringed ribbon is in request for the purpose. A very fine sylphide gauze is more used than tulle, for the foundation of the cap, blond of course, as the border. Jewellery - Bouquets formed in variegated stones are much in vogue, they are worn in the hair, on the fronts of turbans, and also of the corsage. Esprits are not so fashionable. The mode of introducing jewels into wreaths of artificial flowers still prevails. When arranged with taste nothing can be more graceful or becoming. The stone (if large) is placed as the eye of the flower; when little sparks are made use if, they are scattered over the leaves or buds; pearls remain unrivalled as the ornament of evening hats and satin dresses; the pointed corsage is also frequently trimmed round the waist with a cordon of large pearls. A favourite novelty consists of a narrow black velvet collar on which is fastened a gold chain or string of pearls. The clasp being some rich jewel, mosaic, or cameo; a second chain hangs lower on the neck and sustains another ornament in the same style, bracelets are likewise made on this plan and have a pretty effect. The Berlin jewellery will be fashionable this spring; it is now manufactured in every variety of pattern, and appears capable of the most elegant designs. Scarfs - The etoile pattern still prevails, trimmed with blond instead of fur, or with a feather ruche. Persian silk is a favourite material for demi neglige scarfs; the ends fringed and variegated colors introduced in a double stripe above. In full dress nothing is so recherche as the Delhi scarf; this texture is, indeed, the acme of elegance. Hair Dressing - Ringlets a la Sevigne are very much worn when the ahri is dressed with flowers or wreaths of foliage (which are now all the vogue) but when feathers are worn a more rigid style is chosen, the front hair is parted, the long tresses on each side brought mid-way the cheek and reversed, and the hair behind drawn into a knot a la Grecque. A very graceful mode consists in seperating the long hair into three or four plaits, and winding them round the head till they meet at top where a gold arrow is passed through. Prevailing Colours for the Month - Pale rose-color, violet, two shades of green, lilac and scabieuse.