Romantic Era Fashion Chit Chat - March 1825 Ladies' Monthly Museum

Romantic Era Fashion Chit Chat - March 1825 Ladies' Monthly Museum

General Monthly Statement of Fashion

Mantles continue to be much worn in promenade dress; the most admired are composed of black satin, wadded and lined with amber, or flame colour. There are also a few in velvet, and some in very fine Merino cloth, with velvet capes; the latter material, owing to its soft, light, and warm texture, is extremely well adapted for walking dress. These mantles are invariably trimmed with the richest fur. Pelisses of gros de Naples, wadded, are also much in favour for the promenade. The sleeves are long and full, and confined between the shoulder and the elbow with a band and button, and five bands, placed at equal distances from the wrist towards the elbow. The fronts are ornamented with three bias tucks on each side, meeting at the waist, and increasing in breadth and distance as they reach the shoulder, or descend to the bottom of the skirt, where they turn off in a round form, and are continued round to the opposite side, where they meet the tucks in front, and, interlacing with them, form a festoon on each side; beneath is a broad wadded hem.

For carriage dress, mantles and pelisses continue in equal favour; the former are chiefly lined and trimmed with fur; the latter are trimmed with a double row of points, one half velvet, and the other satin, in the form of a pelerine, which has a novel effect. Fur is also very much in favour for pelisses: the most admired is chinchilla, dark sable, or ermine.

Velvet and black beaver are the principal materials for walking bonnets; they are for the most part trimmed with feathers, but many of the former are trimmed with velvet, slightly intermixed with satin. We have seen a ew carriage-bonnet deserving of notice; it is composed of Indian rose-coloured gros de Naples; the crown is high: a knot composed of folds of the same material, is placed in the centre of the crown; and four white marabouts issue from it on each side, so arranged as to form a fan. The inside of the brim is covered with a fulness of blond net, formed by narrow rouleaux of the same material as the bonnet. A rouleau of a larger size finishes the edge of the brim. The strings are of gros de Naples, of the lappet form, edged with anrrow blond lace.

A beautiful morning dress has just been submitted to our inspection; it is composed of French grey levantine; the corsage is made full and up to the throat, but without a collar; the fulness is confined round the bust by a triple gaging, formed by narrow grey silk cord: a similar gaging confines it also at the waist: the body fastens behind. The sleeves are very full, and finished at the wrist by bracelets composed of triple rows of gaging; a similar band confines it to the arm midway between the elbow and the wrist. The trimming of the skirt consists of three rows of bias tucks of the same material, laid on in waves. Waists continue very long, and the busts of dresses are much ornamented. Sleeves in full dress are extremely short, very full, and falling considerably off the shoulder. Evening dresses of ethereal blue satin, and striped gauze, are much admired: the corsage is plain in front, with a stomacher formed of blue satin, laced with cord, and finished on each side with square satin straps, in the Spanish fashion, a satin rouleau round the top, and a narrow blond tucker. The sleeves are short and full; and a double row of straps, forming a wreath, is placed just above the band, which is edged with blond. A satin cape with square corners, (divided on the shoulder,) extends from the stomacher round the back of the corsage, and is also trimmed with narrow blond. The bottom of the dress is ornamented with a wreath of crescent-shaped leaves edged with blond, having in the centre a sort of chain composed of French folds of satin: beneath are two narrow rouleaux of satin, and a broad wadded hem.

Toques and turbans are much inf avour. Some ladies have their hair arranged with a profusion of curls in front, and a band of pearls brought low on the forehead. The hind hair is arranged in bows by jewelled combs, and short white down feathers placed irregularly between the bows.

The most fashionable colours are, damask rose colour, Egyptian brown, and various shades of violet, blue, and green.

The Parisian Toilet

Mantles continue to form the most general envelope; they are made so long and large, that the hem of the gown can scarcely be seen; these mantles are chiefly of velvet, or black glazed satin. Furs are very general in trimmings; lynx, sable, and ermine, are most fashionable. The collar is entirely of fur; the trimming consists of a broad band, which goes round: the pelerine is edged to correspond, but the band is baout half the width. Cachemere shawls are seen with ridingotes, but they are not very numerous.

Bonnets are still very large; the favourite material at present is black or blue velvet; there are, however, a number made of black glazed satin. They are generally ornamented with white down feathers; the lappets are of white crepe lisse, or white gauze de laine. Where feathers are not used for velvet bonnets, they are generally ornamented with a piece of the same stuff, cut in the form of a half handkerchief; they are lined with satin, and finished at each point with an acorn in wrought silk; this trimming is so arranged, that one of the points falls in front of the crown, and the two others at each side.

Evening dresses are now generally of gauze crepe lisse, or tulle, over white satin; they are finished by an intermixture of satin bands corded at the edge and ruches of tulle.

Corsages made tight to the shape, now very generally supersede those en blouse. Tight sleeves, with very full mancherons, are much in favour. Pelerines are universally adopted, and are always trimmed to correspond with the dress.

The Peruvian toque is in great request; it is made very low, and finished by short grey down feathers, placed round at regular distances. The Venetian toque, ornamented with ostrich feathers, placed a little on one side, and falling back over the crown, is also in high favour. Turbans are the most fashionable covering for the head in full dress; they are always adorned with feathers.

The most fashionable colours are damask rose colour, violet, grey, and lilac.