Fashion Chit Chat - November 1828 Ladies' Monthly Museum
General Monthly Statement of Fashion
However charming are now the environs of London, and however beautifued, and improved in its sanative air, may be the metropolis itself, yet the mania for absenteeism still prevails: excursions to the continent, and long sojournments in distant counties yet contine, and we scarcely dare to indulge the hope of seeing the town well filled by the higher orders of society till November, and a great part of December, however cold and gloomy, shall have passed away.
But fashion is not quite in that undetermined state as she was the two last preceding months; her votaries begin to think of winter costume, and the dress-makers and milliners are occupied in preparations for the gelid season.
In the balls which lately took place in the country, the simplicity of style which marked the little rural dance was done away, and the dress was more similar to that of a bal pare. The favourite costume was of flock gauze, with two broad flounces of rich blond round the border. Many young ladies on these occasions wore also dresses of plain tulle, with draperies of blond, gracefully ornamenting the skirt, though lightly; the waist confined by a sash of broad riband, shaded in various colours. Fichu pelerines, trimmed with broad lace, and pointed, the point behind confined under the sash, are very fashionable. Dresses of gros-de-Naples for home costume will be of dark colours, they now have seldom any other ornament round the border than one very broad hem: when such gowns are worn in half dress, there is generally some little ornament over the head of the hem; such as a row of embroidery, or a Greek pattern, in silk braiding. Chintzes are yet worn in morning deshabille. The sleeves of almost all dresses are generally a la Marie, and the trimmings at the border of the skirts consist chiefly of one or of two broad flounces, headed according to fancy.
Bonnets of gros-de-Naples are very fashionable. They are trimmed round the crown with long puffs of broad riband, striped in various colours; these ribands, though rendered gay in appearance by this diversity, are of rich texture, and well adapted to the approaching winter. A ruche of blond is a favourite ornament at the edge of hats; bonnets have already appeared not only of watered gros-de-Naples and satin, but also of satin and velvet mixed together, and these last mentioned are black: they are close but not very long at the ears. Straw and Dunstable bonnets, large, close, and very simply trimmed, yet continue to be worn in the morning walks; they were lined with coloured satin generally of a dark tint, but not dull; veils are very general; but flowers are seldom seen on hats and then only in carriages; this is as it should be; nothing so much marks the gentlewoman as a retired and simple attire for walking.
The hair is now well arranged; the large and monstrous curls which used to surround the face, while they disfigured it, are totally done away; the corkscrew ringlets, so well adapted to young faces, but to them only, have now succeeded, and seem to present again to our view the beauties of the Court of Charles II. Ladies of riper years arrange their hair very often a la Madonna, on the forehead, while a few light ringlets ornament each temple; this is a very becoming and graceful fashion, both to young and old; and there are some of the former, who do not look well with too great a profusion of corkscrew ringlets; especially if the face is thin and pale. The dress hats are made of crape and blond, and are ornamented with short white feathers; with this head-dress the half Madonna style we have just described does not look well; and the hair in full clusters of curls on each side the face is the only way in which it can be becomingly arranged under a dress hat; there is now so charming a diversity in fashion, that provided a lady does not quite lose sight of the reigning mode, she is at free liberty to wear what best suits her features. The berets and turbans are immensely large; and thereby obscure the beauty of the hair, if ever so well arranged; they are worn in every style of dress; a plume of marabouts, or a few aigrette feathers rendering these head-dresses fit for the evening party. The autumnal cap, formed of fine lace, with a coloured caul of gros-de-Naples, is a charming coiffeure for home dress; it is trimmed with bows of gauze riband, with rich satin stripes, the colour of the caul; these caps are expected to prevail much this winter.
The silk pelisses and cloaks are numerous; particularly the latter; the former are of very unobtrusive colours, such as milk-chocolate, fawn, and Egyptian-sand; they are made very plain, fasten close down the front, from the throat to the feet, and have all that comfortable appearance which first distinguished this judicious out-door garment, on its first introduction into this country. The mantles, or cloaks, appear all new, and, if they are so, there will be but little novelty in this kind of envelope to be recorded at present; they have arm-holes, and triple pelerine-capes; those for evening parties and the theatres have a hood, instead of capes; which, for those ladies who wear no cap or turban, can be put on the head, and serve as a capote against the night air. Scarfs and square shawls of cachemire, are frequently worn over high dresses of poplin or gros-de-Naples.
The colours most admired will be puce, myrtle-green, ethereal-blue, Hortensia, milk-chocolate, and Egyptian-sand. A favourite colour for cloaks, is slate.
Hair in front continues to be dressed in full light curls, divided in the centre. The bows are arranged high and brought more forward on the summit of the hair, with a pearl comb, the whole surmounted with a plume of fashionable feathers.
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