General Monthly Statement of Fashion
Balls, concerts, and festivals, have, with their high and noble patrons and patronesses, now quitted town for the country. The former, since our last accounts, have increased in favour as the weather becomes cooler. The private concert of amateurs has been succeeded by the public musical festival; and though simplicity of costume is discernible, yet dress begins to assume a splendid appearance, both at the noble mansion, belonging to titled wealth, and at the public meetings of the first professors of the harmonic science.
We congratulate our fair countrywomen on the evident change, for the better, in their bonnets. We began to perceive, after finding the enormous head-coverings so long in favour, as even to triumph over the love of novelty, that their wearers would be "Touch'd and shamed by ridicule alone."
The fine leghorn bonnets now worn in walking parties, or in open carriages are of a charming shape, and not too large. The ribands which trim them as superb, both as to texture and colour; while the figures in embossed satin, though singular as to pattern, are extremely beautiful: one, in particular, seems very fashionable; the ground is of a deep claret colour, and one edge is striped with three different shades of light-coloured satin, of very lively tints. From this stripe issues, at intervals, figures in blue, drake's-neck-green, and yellow, resembling small martello towers. This riband has an excellent effect on the leghorn, and the colours are charmingly suited to the autumnal season; it is put on very tastefully, but by no means profusely; if it were, it would render its appearance heavy, and destroy all its pleasing effect. The most becoming and elegant carriage-bonnet which has lately come under our inspections, was of white transparent crape, with a broad blond at the edge: the crown was ornamented lightly with the same material, in puffs, edged with narrow blond; while under the brim, and about the crown, were bouquets of sweet peas, and buds of blush roses. The shape and becoming size of this bonnet is truly attractive; and it is tied under the chin, on the right side, by a bow of white riband. On bonnets of gros-de-Naples, we observe many ruches; they are of the same colour and material as the bonnet, are pinked, and are very full. White gauze veils are much in favour over morning bonnets, for walking. The new white silk bonnets are of gros-de-Indes: they are trimmed with white gauze ribands, and much admired by ladies belonging to the higher classes. There is a simplicity and elegance in these novel kind of bonnets, which is quite refreshing after the monstrous shapes by which we have so long been annoyed.
The chintz dresses, of every kind and pattern, are still in high favour for home costume. They are generally trimmed with one very broad flounce, set of full, and headed. When striped, the stripes are carried across the skirt, by which means a flounce never sits well: the flounces are generally ornamented with braiding of a very lively colour, and those which are found in the patterns of the gowns are most varied and beautiful. The favourite ground is either a light stone-colour, or a canary-yellow. Dresses of coloured Batiste are also much in fashion for home attire: they are most admired when the ground is of some light and unobtrusive colour, and the figures in large chequers. The tints of these chequers are so various and vivid, and so beautifully shaded off, one colour into the other, in the stripes that form the diamonds, that they have an effect equal to the finest painted velvet. As, however, the autumnal season draws on towards its close, it is expected that dark silks will make their appearance as the most prevailing fire-side costume; and already those of gros-de-Naples have been seen on many ladies, for this purpose. The favourite colours, Etruscan-brown, or Navarin-smoke. White muslin dresses are still much worn by young persons, even at dress-parties; for which style they are most splendidly embroidered. The bodies are chiefly made en gerbe, and a pointed zone is worn round the waist. The mancherons at the tops of long sleeves are formed of a single point. Flounces are now again more in favour than the last novel way of finishing the skirt of a gown by one broad hem. The gowns continue to be worn very much cut away from the shoulders; but we must not look for any alteration in dresses till next month. White morning dresses are now very seldom seen, every lady preferring those of chintz.
Cachemere shawls, as well as those of English manufacture, are much worn in out-door costume. The muslin spencers and pelerines present a chilly appearance; and even, at times, a mantle of silk of some lively colour, is displayed. The newest pelerines are very large, descending as low as the small of the waist. Some silk pelisses are very plain, made close to the shape, without any trimming; others are faced with velvet, the colour of the pelisse; the sleeves full, drawn in, in puckerings, and much ornamented: these, are of course, for the carriage, the others for the promenade; but it is impossible to say which style will most prevail.
Dress-hats, as usual, form a favourite head-dress, not only among out matrons, but also with young married females, at evening parties in the country. They are usually of white crape, and ornaments, according to fancy, with either feathers or flowers. The hair is very becomingly and elegantly arranged in full, easy ringlets on each side of the face; not those exactly entirebouchons, but much lighter and shorter. The back part is composed of puffs of hair, and graces the back of the head, not towering on the summit. The present mode has some slight resemblance to the Greek style, but is more becoming, and better adapted to English features.
The caps worn in half dress are very elegant; they are of tulle, fancifully arrnaged in puffs and plaitings; and are most admired when ornamented with coloured gauze, instead of ribands. Our fair countrywomen seem determined to disfigure their heads by huge head-dresses: the berets and turbans are of most voluminous dimensions.
The colours most in request are myrtle-green, Navarin-smoke, cerulean blue, jonquil, bright geranium, pink, and lavender-grey.
Modes de Paris
Many ladies wear very large straw hats, without any other trimming than the simple riband which serves to tie them under the chin. All, however, are far from having this unobtruding taste in dress, however beneficial to the complexion; and had rather encounter the dust in the Bois de Boulogne, where they can display their towering plumes, and expensive trimmings of blond. Some leghorn hats are also loaded with trimmings. The leaves of the pine-apple form a favourite ornament; but these are not of nature's verdant tint - they are of a bright rose-colour. Bonnets of painted Indian taffety, lined with blue, white, yellow, or pink, are among the favourite novelties of the day. Bonnets of yellow or green watered gros-de-Naples, are trimmed en fers de cheral round the crown, formed by placing a round piece of the same material over it; and in the hollows made by this species of rasace, are placed flowers with long stalks. Bonnets, called English bonnets, of open straw, lined with blue, and trimmed the same colour, are worn in the morning walks: no lady of fashion would think of going out at that time without such a bonnet. Chip hats, with a few bows of gauze riband and a gauze veil, are very fashionable. A few days ago there were seen some very pretty bonnets, with the edge of the brim painted in divers colours. The ribands were painted in the same way, on one side, and ornamented the bonnet in puffs. Large bonnets of coloured crape, with puckered cowls, and ornamented with Bengal roses, are much in request.
Small dress-caps of blond, and embroidered tulle, are ornamented, and kept in shape by stiffened rouleaux of white satin. They are trimmed with various sorts of flowers; amongst which is one that predominates: the sweet pea is now the blossom par excellence. Bandeaux of jewels are worn on the hair in full dress. Dress-hats are made of a silk material, manufactured at Lyons, imitating Chinese crape. On these hats are placed two birds of Paradise. Dress hats also of white or coloured gros-des-Indes are ornamented with fancy flowers, formed of feathers. A lady, at a late elegant assembly, had her hair dressed a la Grecque, with a full cluster of curls on each temple: these were divided by a gold bandeau, ornamented with a cameo. Another lady had several tufts of the herb, called St. John's wort, mingled amongst her tresses. A beret of rose-coloured crape was crowned with a half-wreath of clematis, towards the back of the head: in front was another half-wreath under the beret, lying on the hair. Puffs of brown gauze riband, with gold stripes, are often placed behind the Apollo knot; and many ladies ornament their hair with garden daisies. The berets are large, and are ornamented either with feathers, or with flowers, having very long stalks. Berets, which are very flat on the head, have been introduced by some ladies, who affect to set the fashions: they are placed very much on one side, and have two rosettes lying on the hair.
Amongst the dresses of Organdy and embroidered muslin, we particularly cite some which were worked in a Greek pattern, in lilies of the valley: the wristbands were covered with the same embroidery. Some beautiful dresses have been sent to Luneville, and other distant towns, and those of white watered gros-de-Naples were particularly beautiful, being richly trimmed with blond; a flounce of which expensive material was three quarters of an ell in depth. A narrower blond of the same pattern formed the head. The corsage was a la Roxalane, trimmed with a broad, falling tucker of blond. The sleeves, en tulle a la Marie, with the fullness confined in several divisions. Whether the dress is white or coloured, the long sleeves are always white, and of some transparent material: the corsages are pointed, the waists very long, and much pinched in. The morning dresses of ladies of high rank are of muslin, trimmed with lace. For the ball-room the dresses are of white tulle or lace. Some of the silk dresses are ornamented with a border, worked in silk embroidery, of the same colour as the robe. For evening parties there have appeared some white muslin dresses, worked and ornamented with gold: the sleeves short, and the corsage a la Grecque. A friar's belt of gold encircles the waist, tied behind, the ends of which hang as low as the heels. The sashes are often embroidered in silks; lively colours on a white ground. The long sleeve is confined at the wrist by a band, worked in a similar manner, and fastened on the outside of the arm with a small buckle of beautiful workmanship. There has appeared a new kind of embroidery on dresses, in coloured worsted, called knotted embroidery: it is peculiarly well adapted to gowns of cot-pali, and other light materials, on which it produces the most charming effect. The promptitude with which this work is executed, enables the sellers to dispose of it at a very moderate price: it is highly appropriate to rural ball-dresses, and evening parties in the country.
Shawls of Chinese crape, as is usual at this season of the year, are in high favour for out-door coverings. Warmer than they appear, their light-looking texture is well adapted to that mean which should ever be preserved between summer and winter. They are, many of them, embroidered in figures resembling erosiers: these are of various colours, and most admired on a black ground; therefore, these shawls, so long worn by those who were able to attain them, may now be deemed a novelty. Throat-scarfs, of Indian taffeta, called Trigaros, increase in favour every day: they are white or coloured, according to the fancy; but the two ends are embroidered in silks of different shades, in very pretty small bouquets: at the edges are also small running patterns of the same flowers as those in the bouquets. Warm shawls of Cachemire, and those new and inelegant shawls called Banoir, are wrapped closely round the form when the weather is cold. The few new pelisses are made very short, discovering the whole of the half-boot. For morning visits, the most elegant pelisse is of blue or rose-colour, embroidered with white, in a Greek pattern.
The new reticules are like the double purses that were called les diables; they are of two colours, divided by a double runner of gold, and uniting in the middle by strings of riband, suited to the colours of the bag.
The pincushions resembling butterflies, have given place to those now called pincushion dolls. They are made to represent Alsatians, Cauchoises, and Tyrolese females; and their pretty little forms are all struck through with pins and needles, which produce a most singular effect: but these little caprices of fashion are not without their utility.
The favourite colours are Indian-red, blue, rose-colour, yellow, green, and camel's-hair-brown.
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