Romantic Era Fashion Chit Chat - January 1829 Ladies' Pocket Magazine
Cursory Remarks on the Last New Fashions
Though the town seems gradually to fill, it is but slowly; the arrivals of our fashionables are yet retarded, and we fear they will not make any permanent sojournment in the metropolis till after Christmas; but, at the commencement of the new year, let us hope that London will hold out that multiplicity of attractions which are not to be withstood, - safe theatres, an Italian opera, and every kind of amusement which may render the most splendid city in Europe the most interesting, by the welfare and interest, always given to trade and industry, from the residence of the rich and great, in the capital of that country, which owes all her wealth and eclat to the success of her commerce.
There have been certainly some very fashionable arrivals, but no stay was made; they, however, left orders at the different repositories of female costume, and we are enabled from thence to give an account of what is most in vogue. n the article of fur, which promises to be much worn this winter, the most in favor is the lynx, the beautiful light-grey American squirrel, and the light sable and marten, intermingled, forming stripes, and fancy patterns, which appear like feathers; this latter seems such an ephemeral fashion, that it is not likely to be durable: the two furs, thus diversified, had a very beautiful appearance; but it seems a pity to mingle any inferior fur, such as the marten, though now much the rage, with such a valuable skin as that of the light zibeliac, which sells at an immense price, even in America, of which it is a native; and, after all, it has very much the semblance, when thus variegated, of the Norway rat.
Nothing is reckoned more genteel for the out-door costume for young persons, than a Merino dress, made partially high, with a pelerine tippet of lynx, or black fox; another favorite dress of this king, is of a beautiful cinnamon-brown, and over this is a tippet of grey American squirrel, with a muff of the same. Black satin pelisses are very fashionable; they are made very plain, but fasten down the front of the skirt with bows of black, and of rose-colored ribbons, intermingled. Cloaks are as much in favor as they have been for these two months past; they have often a black pelerine worn with them in place of a hood: this is of velvet, and some ladies have velvet capes the color of the cloak, particularly if it is red.
The gowns are very much cut away in the shoulders, and are rather awkwardly square across the bust, which, if a little more seen, and the shoulders less, especially in evening costume, would have a much more attractive appearance. Tulle dresses, with corsages of satin, are worn at balls, and full dress evening parties. Merinos are much in favor for half dress. The silk dresses are still made in that grotesque fashion of being plaited of an equal fullness all round the waist, which we hoped was going to be laid aside. Poplin dresses, both plain and figured, are much in request; the plain, being the real Irish tabinets, are reckoned the most genteel, and are worn in every style of dress: the figured, often of British manufacture, are confined to home costume. Dresses of white satin, with flounces of broad white blond, are reckoned very elegant for evening parties. Pink dresses are also often trimmed in the same manner. The gowns lace behind; and the belts are ornamented in front with a triangular buckle of bronze, or gold.
The hair, which is arranged in various ways, though among the young, is disposed very much in the Vandyck style, yet there are many ladies, especially of more mature age, who still persevere in patronizing the large curls next the face, though certainly they are less preposterous than formerly; these are often adorned by having puffs of colored gauze, or silver flowers mingled among them. The newest berets are of white crape, and are often ornamented with white marabouts. The caps are large, and the favorite cap is a la Psyche, the same as that worn last month: there are, however, more flowers used in the decoration of these caps, from the time they first appeared, and they look all the better for it: there is much style about them, and they require that distinguishing feature in the wearer. The morning caps are in the cornette style; they are of fine lace or blond, and are profusely adorned with puffs of gauze ribbon, of lively colors: as they are often retained through the day, as a home head-dress, they do not appear too much ornamented, though they certainly do for the breakfast-table. The newest dress hat we have seen was of a very moderate size; it was formed of white crape and blond, and was very tastefully ornamented with several white marabout feathers.
Bonnets of black velvet are all the rage, and though some few are seen trimmed with colored ribbon, yet all black is most prevalent. We thought it once impossible that head-coverings so large, could ever be made so becoming as the bonnets now worn, though they have diminished a little; it is not because the eye has become accustomed to them - they really are charming; nor can it be for their variety of ornaments, for they have scarce any; - a few bows ornamented with satin, a scroll, or a bateau of velvet, - that is all: it is the bonnet-maker who has all the merit, who has formed them of so beautiful and judicious a shape, that there are very few faces they do not become. Hats of black satin are much admired, and these are sometimes adorned with esprit feathers. We saw a lemon-colored satin hat on a lady of rank, a few days ago, with a suberb veil of white blond; it looked singular among so many more appropriate velvet hats, and only fitted for the summer: it appeared, however, perfectly new. We have seen, also, besides this, several colored satin bonnets, with white blond veils, in carriages.
The most approved colors are pink, violet, jonquil, cinnamon-brown, ruby, lavender, or silver-grey, and etherial-blue.
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