Romantic Era Fashion Chit Chat - November 1827 Ackerman's Repository

Romantic Era Fashion Chit Chat - November 1827 Ackerman's Repository

Parisian Fashions

Though the autumnal fashions have appeared this year earlier than usual, they have not yet quite displaced those of summer: this is certainly accounted for by the warmth of the weather. But though white dresses are still to be seen in the public promenades, our elegantes, attentive to preserve the appearance of the demi-saison costume, throw a China crape shawl, of a rich full colour, or one of the beautiful half-season scarfs which have just appeared, over their shoulders: this, with a satin bonnet, or one of gros de Naples, white, rose, or couleur des Osages (a dusky copper-colour), trimmed with an intermixture of knots of the same material as the bonnet and autumnal flowers, gives to the dress an appearance perfectly suitable to the time of year.

The greater part of our belles, however, prefer poplin, gros de Naples, and three or four new materials, some in wool, others in silk and wool. Redingotes seem to be getting every day more into favour; they are made, with the corsage, moderately full, the waist the natural length, and sleeves like those of last month; thus, there is nothing new in their form, but there is great taste displayed in their trimmings. Some have an embroidery round the bottom in floss silk of the same colour as the dress, and are fastened up the front by richly wrought gold buttons. Others are finished round the bottom and up the front by small rouleaus of satin to correspond, which are arranged in a kind of scroll pattern. The trimming of the pelerine corresponds. Some pelerines are pointed, others rounded behind; but all have ends, which fall at least a quarter of a yeard below the waist.

There is nothing new in the form of gowns. Trimmings still continue to be worn excessively high. The newest style of trimming consists of three bands, each of them forming a double row of scollops, the points of which meet in the middle.

Bonnets continue as large as ever; but the brims begin now to assume a form something between that of a hat and a bonnet: they descend lower behind, and are a little, but very little, closer. Besides the colours I have already mentioned for bonnets, violet of Parma is in favour; and there are some elegantes who appear in bonnets to correspond with their dresses; but when this last happens to be the case, the chapeau is always trimmed with an intermixture of white down feathers and knots of ribbon: the ribbons most in favour are either figured or plaided; but they are always of rich full colours. A new material, figured crape, and two new kinds of figured silk have just made their appearance for bonnets, and promise to become very fashionable.

We have just seen a dinner-dress made for a distinguished leader of fashion: the corsage was tight to the shape, and cut a moderate height in front, but extremely low behind; a drapery of the same material was disposed in light folds upon the shoulder, and crossed under the ceinture: this drapery is highly advantageous to the shape of the bosom. Short sleeves, full, but not so much so as they are in general, surmounted by epaulettes, composed of interlaced bands of satin, which form a shell. The trimming of the dress consists of two rows of similar shells; each shell is placed at some distance from the other, and the space between filled by a knot of the material of the dress. This dinner-gown, which is really tasteful, is the only novelty that has appeared during the last month. The materials for dinner-dress are, Palmyrienne, Silesienne, both new stuffs and much in favour; French cachemire and gros de Naples.

Full dress is at present of a very splendid description; the materials are lace or tulle over white satin, plain or figured gros de Naples, and fancy silks. There is great variety in trimmings. Many are of blond lace, disposed in various ways: some have deep flounces, disposed horizontally; others have the flounces arranged in waves; and there are a good many ornamented with satin rouleaus, placed en colonnes, with narrow blond lace wreathed round them: this last is the most novel. Embroidery, both in gold and silver, is also in great favour. Sometimes there is a mixture of both. These trimmings are generally in argent or in or mat, but we see occasionally a mixture of bright and dead gold. Embroidery in silk, with sometimes a mixture of gold and silver, is also fashionable.

The bodies of full-dress gowns are generally cut very low, particularly behind; but the neck is often shaded either by a small blond lace pelerine with long ends, or by a gauze ribbon, so arranged as to form at once a fichu, epaulettes, and ceinture. Among the new ornaments in jewellery are flowers composed of precious stones; they are made in wreaths and in single flowers. The former are placed very far back on the head, and a plume of feathers, put quite behind, falls over them on one side; but if the flowers are used, then the feathers, instead of being put far back, are placed on one side, and the flowers at the base of the plume. White agate and white cornelian are much in favour for necklaces, ear-rings, &c.; and the former are worn in full, the latter in half-dress. In some necklaces the stones are divided by a rose in dead gold. Necklaces of dead gold, richly wrought, with agate clasps, and crosses of agate suspended from them, are also much in favour. The bracelets and ear-rings always correspond. The colours for dresses are the same as last month, with the addition of lavender, copper-colour, and a new shade of brown.