Romantic Era Fashion Chit Chat - December 1823 Ackerman's Respository

Romantic Era Fashion Chit Chat - December 1823 Ackerman's Respository

French Female Fashions

Paris, Nov. 18

My Dear Sophia,

Our public promenades are at present very brilliant, most of our distinguished fashionables having arraived within the last few days in Paris from their country-seats. Gros de Naples redingotes, which are always worn with shawls, are much in favour for the promenade, but not quite so general as manteaux: these latter are mostly composed of coating, lined with satin or levantine: a few elegantes, however, still continue to wear them in that peculiarly lustrous black satin which was last winter so fashionable. The colours most fashionable for those in coating are, the mantles of Socrates (a peculiar shade of grey), and a reddish brown, called bear's ear. The manteau has seldom any trimming, but the collar and prelerine are occasionally of fur. Redingotes are made in two ways, both equally fashionable: the first wrap considerably across, have a band of velvet which goes all round, and a double pelerine, trimmed also with a band of velvet to correspond: the sleeves are very large and loose, and the standing collar falls over. The other description of redingote is very much trimmed; it meets but does not wrap in front, and has a broad wreath, either of foliage in satin, or else of very small rouleaus, disposed in a scroll pattern. The most fashionable shawls are those with a crimson ground, or else with a deep palm border.

Morning bonnets consist for the most part of an intermixture of satin with pluche de soie or velours epingle, or gros de Naples, and always of two colours, which are generally strongly contrasted; they are trimmed either with a garland of satin coques, or knots of satin.

Breakfast dress is always made in the redingote style, and is still generally of cambric muslin. The most fashionable are trimmed with rouleaus of clear muslin, disposed in waves all round; they are fastened up the fronts by knots of clear muslin. A large pelerine, trimmed with a fall of clear muslin, disposed in dents de loup, and c collerette formed of muslin bouillonne, completes the dress.

Dinner gowns are of levantine, gros de Naples, or Merino. Those in silk are usually trimmed with an intermixture of satin and crepe lisse, or satin and velours epingle. The crape is disposed in bouffants, which are interspersed with leaves, rouleaus, cockle-sheels, &c. &c. in satin or velvet. Many dinner gowns are made a la vierge and with long sleeves. The sleeves are frequently of crepe lisse, surmounted by an epaulette of the same material as the gown. The sleeve is either very loose, except at the wrist, where it is confined by the bracelet, or else the fulness is divided into compartments by satin bands.

Gauze, crepe lisse, tulle, and China crape, are all in favour in full dress. The most fashionable China crape is that a colonnes en feuille. When the gown is of this material, it is usually trimmed with an intermixture of plain velvet and satin. Coloured tulle is more fashionable than white; it is mostly worn over a satin slip of the same colour. I have seen one, however, in crimson over white satin, which I thought was really striking and magnificent. The trimming consisted of a net-work of white satin, disposed in the form of little baskets, and attached to each other by bows of crimson ribbon; in each of these fairy baskets is a sprig of poppies in crimson satin, and a bunch of silver wheat. The corsage and sleeves are richly embroidered in silver.

Turbans of mingled white and rose-coloured gauze, trimmed with white aigrettes, from which issue plumes of rose-coloured feathers, are very fashionable in evening dress; as are also dress caps in tulle, the cauls of which are in the form of a cockle-shell, and the fronts adorned with a garland of short plumes of marabouts. Others have the crown of a helmet form, and a tuft of flowers placed at one side, in the style of a plume. White satin toque hats, adorned with turquoise-blue scarfs, either of gauze or crape, which are twisted round the corner, and form a rosette at the sides, are also much in favour.

Fashionable colours are, bear's ear, mantle of Socrates, Carmelite brown (which we call la Valliere), ponceau, rose colour, raisin of Corinth blue, straw colour, and light green. Adieu! my dear Sophia! Always your

Eudocia.