Romantic Era Fashion Chit Chat - August 1823 Ladies' Monthly Museum

Romantic Era Fashion Chit Chat - August 1823 Ladies' Monthly Museum

General Monthly Statement of Fashion

Since our last report, there have been no changes of importance in the metropolis. During the short intervals of fine weather, we have remarked, among ladies of the first distinction, some beautiful white pelisses, formed of rich muslin, made very plain and open in the front. Turbands still prevail at the Opera; and feathers are worn larger than ever; in many instances reaching nearly to the elbows. Bonnets are bent down very low over the forehead, but open considerably at the sides, and ornamented with flowers under them. Ears of corn, both ripe and unripe, mixed with flowers, are still very prevalent on bonnets and head-dresses.

In Kengsington-gardens, when the weather was fine, we have witnessed a brilliant display of fashion, rank, and beauty. The most elegant dresses consisted of rich muslin, with beautifully worked flounces, very broad, and decorated in the most tasteful manner. Spencers were invariably worn with these dresses, and consisted of all colors. Many distinguished females wore silk kerchiefs round the neck, while others wore only a frill. The pelisses were, in general, made with a French collar, not very high; left partially open in front of the throat, and surmounted by a beautiful ruff of fine lace; the bust trimmed with rouleaux, entwined with ornamental beading, in the form of Brandenburghs; the sleeves were very simple, exhibiting only a slight degree of fullness. High dresses of Gros de Naples, or Levantine, had generally, no other covering than a handsome silk or lace scarf, displayed in tasteful drapery; but pelissess were more prevalent; and these were also of Gros de Naples, or double Levantine.

The carriage hats are much in the Mary Stuart style, but have no cornette underneath: they are placed extremely backward, with the flowers underneath, lying on the hair: they are of colored or white satin, which article seems more in favor for carriage hats than Gros de Naples. Fine chip begins to be much worn; and feathers in hats and bonnets are but partially seen. Leghorn hats and bonnets are much worn in undress, and are considered most genteel when only very slightly ornamented with richly figured gauze ribands.

We have recently seen a dress of a most beautiful description worn at a grand musical festival. It was composed of Crepe lisse, or fine net; the border was trimmed with puffings of crape, confined by rich fancy ornaments; the hem finished by a row of beautiful blond lace, of a vandyke pattern. A serpentine wave of plaited net was placed over the crape puffings, and in the centre was a rouleau of white satin; between each wave was a full-blown rose, with green foliage. The corsage was Iberian, and of white satin, enriched in front with large pearls. The sleeves were short, composed of net, and simply ornamented with a small rose on the outside of the arm; and the sleeve finished round the arm with vandyke lace. THe hair was beautifully arranged, partly in the style of the portraits, painted by Vandyke, but rather more elevated on the crown of the head: beneath the braid forming this elevation, and in front of it, was placed a very superb Mexican diadem, or topzes, turquoise stones, and pearls; and on the back of the head, on the right side, was a splendid gold comb, with regal points; on the left side of the hair was a full blown rose. The ear-rings were composed of turquoise stones and pearls, and the necklace was formed of one row of very large Oriental pearls. White satin shoes, and white kid gloves.

White dresses are now seldom seen except under a spencer. Our fair countrywomen seem to reserve their white robes for their rural retreats; and while they remain in town delight to vie with each other in the encouragement of our silk manufacturers. We trust so truly laudable a practice will always characterize the British fair. The various colors, all of the most beautiful summer hues, of the different articles in Levantine, gros de Naples, Italian, and Cyprus crape, form a most attractive coup d-oeil at every promenade and public spectacle in this gay and opulent capital. A very elegant ornament on the border of silk dresses is much in favor; it consists of three rows of bias folds of gauze, confined at equal distances by straps of satin, or small bows of riband; but narrow flounces, of some slight material, still prevail, and seem, by their peculiar elegance, as likely to continue long in favor; these flounces are often set on triple-wise, forming three rows.

The favorite colors, are pink, peach-blossom, mignionette-leaf green, celestial blue, and lilac.


The Parisian Toilet

The very unfavorable state of the weather in Paris, as well as in London, has operated very much against the display of that distinguished variety which characterizes this season. The most prevailing walking dress is composed of white muslin, with alternate rows of flowers and tucks, with corresponding ornaments and trimmings to the body and sleeves; the flowers are very much varied in color and size, according to the taste of the wearer; many are crimson and green, others lilac, blue, &c. and are worked with silk and worsted. Dresses of white barege are also very prevalent among ladies moving in the first circles of fashion; these are trimmed with small rouleaux of red satin upon the front of the skirt, reaching from the waist to the bottom of the dress, in the form of a triangular ladder.

The hair is dressed in a very novel style. Instead of large curls, frizzled and heaped on the forehead, they are more simple, being parted on the top, combed smooth, and placed below the temples. The head-dress is finished by a bandeau, an inch wide, of gold texture, studded with precious stones.

White hats of paille de riz and tissu de coton, are very much worn. The former are ornamented with marabouts entwined with scented peas; the latter with long feathers falling down like the weeping willow. Upon some caps of embroidered tulle a profusion of flowers are strewed. They have large strings or lappets which are not tied; a simple riband confines them under the chin. The most favorite flower on Leghorn is, the baguenaudien, or bladder-nut blossom, at the base of which is placed a bow of straw-colored riband.

Little more is worn over dresses for out-door costume, than a scarf of barege silk, with satin stripes of white, or bright yellow; these scarfs are often passed through a ring of beautifully polished steel. The newest gauze veils are ornamented at the border with rich satin stripes; they are seldom worn over the face, but are thrown back over the crown of the bonnet, or hang in elegant drapery over one side.

The favorite colors are violet, puce, lemon-color, mignionette, and celestial blue.